In regard to Larry's point, I know that the Campy drop center bolt worked when used to replace the center bolt of an original Dura Ace sidepull brake (Idid this back in the 70's), so I'd guess an old Dura Ace center bolt would probably work with Campy calipers, though I haven't tried it. There's probably a fair chance a Superbe center bolt would work on Campy also, since Superbe was a very close Campy clone. Not that any one of these is necessarily any easier to find than Campy bolts, but at least you have more chances at something that will work.
Larry Osborn wrote:
> > <<.....brake calipers ............. it needs nutted attachments and
> >have recessed hex bolts. ..............what about drilling out the mounting
> >holes? I assume this is no problem with the fork crown, but I also assume
> >it's out of the question for the rear brake because it would weaken the
> >seatstay bridge? >>
> >There is a risk of boogering up the rear bridge for sure and also it is hard
> >to get the proper angle for careful drilling on the back side of that
> >If you are stripping the frame anyway, there are a few varieties of pre-made
> >inserts that can be easily silver brazed into the rear brake bridge to
> >reinforce it. If you decide to use something like that let me know and I can
> >hook you up. A pro bike paint service will also be able to do it.
> Another option you might consider. Back when allen nut mountings became the
> fashion, some people converted their NR/SR nutted calipers to allen nut to
> work with their new fashionable frames by replacing the center thru-bolts.
> Cheaper than buying new brakes, then and now. I have picked up several
> new/used "nutted" thru-bolts at swaps either as loose parts or by buying
> mangled calipers for cheap, and reversed the process on some allen calipers
> that were just too good a bargain to pass up over a "trivial little detail"
> like mounting hardware. The bolt on your existing "front" caliper is
> probably long enough to work as-is for the rear with a nut, so you might
> just need to find a longer nutted "front" thru-bolt. (sorry, it's been a
> while since I performed these operations and I forget the details. Or maybe
> it was all just a bad dream). Not sure if the bolts from the Campy clones
> made by Suntour & Shimano will work. I haven't been that desperate yet. I
> always figure it's safer/cheaper to mangle the components to make them work
> with a frame, rather than mangle a frame to work with the components.
> Larry "slightly mangled but functional / still allen free" Osborn