In a message dated 1/12/01 6:11:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hilary.Stone@Tesco.net writes:
> > Tom Dalton wrote:
> >> >
> >> > A properly set up Phil, or MAVIC, or what have you, will
> >> > have play at the rim.
> With other annular (cartridge) bearing hubs it is
> sometimes possible to do the same with a very thin washer under a dustcap
or
> similar.
This depends on the hub design. Many of the cartridge bearing hubs have a shoulder or sleeve to specifically prevent any axial load on the inner race of the bearing (mostly from the QR compression) that some were subject to. Then the play at the rim is influenced by the ABEC rating of the bearing (bearings can have intentional play to account for thermal expansion), the bearing quality, and the level of interference fit (usually between the bearing and the hubshell). I have found that these type of hubs, with good bearings, have no notocible play and very long bearing life. As a hub manufacturer technical rep, my experience was that bearing life was much more influenced by the grease used than anything else. People buy cartridge hubs because they are lead to believe no service is required, so they don't do any. The typical bearing used in most hubs is an inexpensive import for industrial use, which sees little or no exposure to weather/water, etc. The grease used is lite, and in small quantity, for low grease-shear. This doesn't suit bike use much. Cheap bearings actually can work prety well if good, waterproof grease is used. These motor bearing are see so few and low RPM's, relative to the intended use, that the lube is not really for friction or wear (in bike use). It just prevents corrosion. A rusty bearing race will wear very shortly if ridden.
Jon Schaer