I think the consensus among the Peugeot experts is the PR didn't have the full 11-tube Reynolds DB set or chromed rear stays on mine. My best theory now is I have PX-10 frame with a PR-10 fork added later, unless Brian Blum is right that some PX-10s got the cheaper crown at the factory.
In '72 I was torn between the Gitane Interclub and the Raleigh Super Course. Both had cottered cranks but the Gitane had tubulars (sprints). I chickened out on the tubulars and got the Raleigh, but within a year or two I put tubular wheels on it after all! I think I had upgraded the crank to a Nervar Star by then, so I never had a bike with cottered cranks and tubulars at the same time.
I guess this is a sine qua non of the REAL classic rider, eh?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ebbikes@aol.com [mailto:Ebbikes@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 10:20 PM
> To: email@example.com
> Subject: RE: [CR]How To ID a UO-8 or PX-10
> Mark - Seems like that might be a PR-10. In 1973 when I
> bought my first "good" bike, it was a PA-10. Cottered cranks
> and sew-ups! It was $150. The PR-10 was $200 and the PX-10
> must have been $250. Way out of my price range. I sold my
> Hodaka Ace-100 motorcycle to buy it. Saw me through my first
> year of touring and club racing.