I agree with monkeyman on the spoke tension and also recommend doing the old
tie and solder thing. I have found that the 16mm nips work but don't have
quite the proper look, I would use 22mm also made by DT. Also remember that
the holes in the rim are directional and you need to lace the rim following
this pattern(the valve hole does not always end up where you want it. I
don't think builders were as anal about those kind of things in days of wood
rims.I hope this info helps..........................GIAN...........L.A.
>From: Monkeyman <monkey37@bluemarble.net>
>To: GRIFFKS@aol.com, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>Subject: Re: [CR]Re: Wooden Rims
>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:19:24 -0700
>
> >.........can any enlightened members advise on the building of the above,
> >having purchased a set of 70's (NOS)Wooden Rims at a local cycle jumble I
> >have had them recently built up. The wheelbuilder said he didn't
>want
> >to tension too tightly as he felt that being wood the spoke nipple head
>would
> >embed deeper in the rim, my thoughts later was maybe to put a small
>washer
> >in place beneath the nipple head prior to lacing therefore giving a
>greater
> >diameter. Would this have been normal practice?
> > Don't say try different nipples as the extra
>long
> >type designed for these rims were extremely difficult to track down!!
> >Meanwhile the spokes do feel "twangy"
> >...........any ideas anyone?
>
>Long nipples and washers are the key to building wood rims. Spoke tension
>was lower back in "the day" and I can't give you any real actual numbers
>since my tensiometer is in my fingers, but my guess is one half to one full
>turn less than modern tight. I don't know what nipples you're looking for
>but DTs still come in 16mm which should be fine.
>
>enjoy,
>Brandon"monkeyman"Ives
>
>
>Brandon and Mitzi's-- "Wurld uv Wunder"
>http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~capybara/
>
>Monkeyman's on going bicycle part garage sale <<<NEW LISTINGS>>>
>http://www.uweb.ucsb.edu/~mkirklan/salepage/garage.html
>
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