A NR doctoring thing: Many cages on these were crooked right out of the box.
They do respond to straightening; here's how: Check derailleur ear of rear
dropout with straightening tool, straighten as necessary.
Mount derailleur on dropout, remove pulley bolts, pulleys, back plate of
cage. After wiping cage clean, put a straightedge on the outer (still
attached) plate of the rear derailleur. If it doesn't run parallel to the
chainrings, bend it carefully until it does. You can use a crescent wrench
for this, I'm a VAR bending bar snob for this job.
Reassemble cage and pulleys, you should find the derailleur will run more
quietly and shift with less hesitation than before if the cage was really
> In a message dated 7/5/01 2:48:54 PM, email@example.com writes:
> << "a Campy NR will shift badly almost forever". >>
> Jerry, I don't know how you're setting up your bikes, but I've never had a NR
> that worked any way other than beautifully.
> I've learned chain length is important, and that many times the derailler
> hanger or the derailler body is not square to the chainline, affecting the
> smoothness of operation and noise level. Properly setup they should be
> almost silent.
> They like a clean, well-oiled chain (I've always used motor oil myself, no
> modern ointment works as well!) I believe they do get better with age, and I
> don't think I've ever had one that was worn out. Other than that, they're
> pretty bullet proof other than crash damage.
> I think the old Gran Sports and Records work almost as well given a good
> setup. If its a bike I'm going to ride a lot, I replace the steel jocky
> wheels with plastic on those old ones.
> I've had Simplexes from time to time, and they're alright, but I would want
> to place any longevity bets on em! The plastic becomes very brittle with age
> and I've had many break at the mounting locations.
> But enjoy your fantasies. Send me all those old badly shifting NRs you can't
> stand! I'll trade you all my broken plastic French gems.
> Ted Williams
> Its a joke from Berkeley