Bruce,
Many things go into quality paintwork. Keys are:
1. Quality material. Polyurthane enamels and Polyester powdercoats are our preference. Imron is illegal in most areas now and we don't use it. We've tested many materials and have our own in-house color lab will stock the entire line of toners so we can mix any amount of any color without waste. It's a big investment, but it's part of the reason for our cost effectiveness. We use Akzo Sikkens materials. Harder to use than Imron, but give us better color and quality.
2.Strict observance of correct time windows. If the paint manufacturer says mix it 30 minutes before application then wait 15 minutes between coats then not more than 4 hours before clear coating, 20 minutes before application, 10 minutes between coats and 5 hours before clear in NOT OK. That's one reason why we are a team here. My painters are not distracted or interrupted by phones or email. They focus on doing things right.
3. Cleanliness. Quality painting is like surgery and real care must be used to prevent contamination, or rust will re-infect your bike.
4. Oven baking. Modern paints are polymers and form better links if cured with heat.
5. Accurate mixes. Our paints are created from a formula based on 62 different toners. Depending on the color, anywhere for 1 to 8 toners are poured. Once toners are mixed to create the color, binder, hardener, and reducer are added, then accelerators and flexagents and glossing agents. That means measuring 4 to 6 more components to the mix. Maybe that makes this a "six pack"? It take time and discipline to get this all right. Further, we comply with all to local Air Pollution Control Board Resources regulations and every drop we use and dispose (recycled) is recorded.
6. Proper application. Not too much not to little, just the right distance from the gun. Correct air pressure, speed etc. There's no hard rules here, as it depends on air temperature, humidity and the color you're spraying. An experienced painter knows when it's right.
7. One can deliver a job that appears good if but is destined for poor durability unless one in very strict about all the things above and more. It's tedious and hard work. I think it helps to have a painter who is dedicated to bicycles and considers that to me his calling. Other wise, especially with car guys, the tendency is to treat the bikes as toys or second class work and cut corners.
The paints we use are closer to those used in aircraft and industrial applications than what most auto body shops use. For example, we use strictly epoxy-based primers, which are tougher and more corrosion resistant. They are much more expensive, slower drying and don't sand as well and therefore not generally used for automotive repair. Also, we completely remove every bit of the original finish with shot blasting then oven bake the paint, even though it is not "necessary". We do that to improve durability. It is extremely rare that car parts are treated this way. They are generally sanded with paper and painted mostly over the original finish.
As we methodically remove the paint and clean every millimeter of the frame surface we take the time to inspect for crack, and other structural problems. We also check alignment. These things are not required to paint the bike but we do them because we feel it is our responsibility to give the customer a frame he can safely enjoy for many years.
We offer powdercoat as a budget option. We feel it is best suited for welded frames and least suited for guy who tend to rust their bikes. It does not cover the edges as well, and offer less corrosion protection. It is not suitable for carbon, or bonded frames and probably not good for heat treated aluminum like 7000 series. Steel is no problem.
No, we have not "cornered the market" I think every body has a "buddy who
can do it for them". We see the sad results of many damaged friendships. I
think we get a reputation for high price because we offer exotic finishes
and restorations which can be expensive. It's the exotics that people
remember. Full pricing information is on our website at:
http://cyclart.com/
So, I repeat, please work with one of those capable UK bicycle specialists like Argos or Jackson. A few hundred mile need not be a barrier, some of our best accounts are on the East Coast more about 3,000 miles away. Bike frames a are light an ship inexpensively. OR take advantage of the low airfares at present and take a little vacation this winter in California and visit us! At present we are right on top of incoming work and have the fastest turnaround in years.
I sympathize with your Gillot lust. Here are pictures of mine:
http://www.cyclart.com/
It needs refinishing, as it has a poor amature job on it now. I've yet to decide new colors....
In shaky California (a pretty good tremor just now)
Jim Cunningham.
-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-admin@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-admin@bikelist.org]On Behalf Of brucerobbins Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 1:53 PM To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Re: Frame painting and a dig at Mark Bulgier
"Jim Cunningham" <cyclartist@home.com> wrote:
>I'd seek out a bicycle refinish specialist with a good reputation and long
history. There's more
> to it than just blowing on good paint. Get your recommendations from bike
shops not car >guys. The auto dealer does not know about real world
durability on bicycles, which have >different demands than cars.
Jim,
Please excuse my ignorance but what special procedures would a bike painter bring to painting a frame as opposed to a car sprayer? Would it be to do with the preparation of the frame (if so, how?) or the application of the paint-again what would be done differently? Do you use two-pack paint and, if so, how does it stand up to everyday use? I've read that Imron, which no one seems to have heard about in the UK, gives a great finish but it, too, appears to be an auto two-pack paint. Do you use it? In short, what should I look out for from this auto painter? Sorry about all the questions but all the recognised frame painters in the UK live several hundred miles from me.
I also understood from reading various posts that having a frame painted in America was very expensive. You must have cornered the market entirely if, with your reputation, you're able to do a single colour repaint including stripping and frame alignment check for £75. If I was in the US, I'd snap up that deal now!
Finally, can Mark stop outing Ebay bikes like that Gillot. That's the most desirable bike I've seen in many a month and I must now have one. It's my favourite period (1940s) and has a lovely and interesting collections of parts. I thought I was beginning to come to terms with this addiction but Bulgier's got me going again. In future, Mark, will you stick to outing Masis. :)
Bruce