Re: [CR]need raleigh 753 info

(Example: Framebuilding:Technology)

From: "Rick Chasteen" <>
To: <>
References: <C102531FB711D411B5B90060B0A468760DABC4@MAIL>
Subject: Re: [CR]need raleigh 753 info
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:01:26 -0600

Two tenths of a millimeter on a 753 seat tube, eh? Didn't Brother (Seldom Seen Lately) Baylis discuss something like this a few months ago?

Since I doubt a 753 tube COULD be ovalized without being painfully obvious (and certainly not that close to the lug), I'd be willing to bet that seat tube and/or the opening of the seat lug have not been properly relieved. Before I reamed the tube, I'd take a flex hone or a brake cylinder hone and make a couple of passes through the seat lug opening and seat tube. This is a good thing to do with any steerer or seat tube, anyway, and you don't remove enough metal to do any damage. You will find it easier to insert stems or seat posts and they are less likely to be scratched from burrs or imperfections in the tubes. An added incentive to undertake this procedure is the very pretty crosshatch it leaves on the tube walls.

If a 27.0 post fits after honing, then that is what I would use.

Rick Chasteen, Kansas City

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Bulgier
To: 'Jack Bissell'

<> Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 1:40 PM Subject: RE: [CR]need raleigh 753 info

> A couple of people have mentioned that 753 is "superlight" and that's a
> reason not to ream...