Those damn brakes (Re: [CR]NEW BAYLIS FRAME...)

(Example: Component Manufacturers)

In-Reply-To: <3B490475.1FA5@adnc.com>
References: <B76DEF47.3DFF%d.kennard@home.com> <a05100300b76e6a091162@[128.111.200.88]>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 19:58:05 -0700
To: rocklube@adnc.com
From: "Monkeyman" <monkey37@bluemarble.net>
Subject: Those damn brakes (Re: [CR]NEW BAYLIS FRAME...)
Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org


>One more for my good buddy Monkeylad. I'm not sure what I think of the
>braze-on brake bolts either. That's why I did it. I've seen it a few
>times in the past and thought "cool idea if it works".

You're too kind. I too though it looked cool when I first say it on an Erickson (I think) fork. Alas, after I cut the steerer down I then realized how unadjustable the centering became.
>Sure, I'd hate to strip off this paint job if it's a train wreck,
>but I won't have a pissed off customer on account of it. This is truely
>having my cake and eating it too. I'll let you know how it works.

We are our own best R&D.
>Now you can help me. What lead to that as I said was that with allen
>bolt brakes especially, it seems brakes become uncentered (which drives
>me nuts) very easily. Any one of you mechanic types know of a few tricks
>to stop that? I know the nuts are not bottoming out, and I get them as
>tight as I dare to, but nothing seems to work. I'll bet someone has a
>solution.

Keeping the brake adjustment correct has more to do with the mounting nut since that's what keeps the center bolt from moving when the brake is bumped, so make it tighter. Serrated washers help too, or another kind of washer to MAKE SURE it's not bottoming out. The last tip is to grease the interface between the spring and brake arm. This allows the spring to find a nice neutral "bed" so it won't move as the brake opens and closes. enjoy, monkeylad a.k.a. monkeyman a.k.a. TheManMonkey a.k.a. Brandon Ives

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