A 'classic' solution for the spokes unwinding is to use raw linseed oil on the ends of the spokes. I've used this on some alloy nippled revolution spoked wheels with no problems truing or releasing 8 yrs on.
Regards
David Stobie
----- >
. Re: Wheel questions? (Joseph Bender-Zanoni)
> --__--__--
> >
> Some basic wheelbuilding observations:
>
> There is no reason to use straight guage spokes except for cost. The only
> other downside is they wind up a little more when they are trued. DT
> Revolution spokes are 15/17 guage and they wind up considerably. A lot of
> older spokes seem to be severely butted like the DTs.
>
> The spokes need to be matched to the rim. Rims under 375 grams or so are
> best built with 15 guage spokes. Ability (or riding style) to ride light
> wheels is highly individual to the rider, almost regardless of weight.
>
> Wheels need to be adequitely tensioned. Especially for people who weigh a
> bit more than they did in their twenties. The wheel supports the rider by
> detentioning so the spokes will unwind eventually if the tension is not
> high enough. I guess the old timers with wood rims used shellac or
> something as loctite on the nipples, because you cannot tension wood rims
> very highly. Overtensioned wheels damage rims and can unexpectedly
"pretzel".
>
> 4X high flange wheels are kind of dopy because they leave the flange at
> over 90 degrees and can be a pain to replace spokes. But lots of classic
> bikes were built that way.
>
> Alloy nipples are available from DT and others. They work fine on any any
> wheels in my experience. But other wheelbuilders express more caution.
>
> The wood filled rims you mention are Scheeren Weltmeister rims. Others
will
> know more about these superlight rims.
>
> Joe Bender-Zanoni