Hello,
For the sake of discussion, the number of "coats" of paint depends in large part on the type of paint you are trying to apply... enamel, laquer, or polyurethane- which affects your choice of spraying equipment to apply them. The style, type, and coats required to apply these paints differ greatly now compared to when original bike frames were produced. I view bicycle frame painting ***not*** as a "black art" but as a developed skill that requires patience, practice, and accuracy to successfully complete a quality job using a variety of painting techniques. The paint and equipment you choose to use directly affect the quality of the resulting paint job.
Brian, please correct me if I am wrong, but it seems that urethane paints may be a better choice for frames (ie Imron or House of Colors), but tend to be more expensive, difficult to mix with toxic activators, levelers, etc, and have one time use after mixing, but provide a more durable finish and a thinner coat while reducing the cure time. Clear top coats are almost a requirement to obtain a "wet look". However, they use a "thicker" paint normally meant for higher pressure spray guns.
Supposedly, enamels and lacquer require base coats, more layered coats, and cure time that result in paint jobs that are decidedly not as durable as urethane paints. I have heard that clear coats may not be required for these paints because the clear coat is incorporated within the enamel or laquer paint? I am not sure if current lacquer paints tend to yellow or dull with age like vintage Raleigh bikes that seem to "yellow" dry-transfer decals over time. Recent changes in paint chemistry have made enamel and laquers about equal in application and durability, but not as durable as urethane.
Brian, what manufacturer/models of paints and spray equipment do you use to obtain those marvelous finishes and "wet looks" we are interested in? I am currently trying to find out whether I can "thin out" urethane paints to make them viscous enough to run through a number of Paasche airbrushes that I own without clogging the airbrush. Do you have any suggestions? I believe that airbrushes may be a better choice of equipment that conventional car spray guns - less paint overspray with more control. For those interested, I am using airbrush painting techniques from Airbrush Action magazine instructional videos ( http://www.airbrushaction.com ). I am trying to apply urethane paints using 45 psi Paasche AB, H, and VL airbrushes.
Thanks, Steve Neago "Potential painter contemplating his work in Cincinnati, OH"
> Brian 15 coats? paint become brittle with more than 3 mills on there.
I
> have used PPG, DuPont, PCL, and others -- base coat, thin clear coat, dry
> then color sand, add decals and custom stripes, two top coats possible
three
> of clear. You do paint far better than I do so I am not trying to
debate
> this. I have put intricate flames on old cars with less steps. I wish I
had
> the time and you felt like walking me through your work area sometime I
might
> learn something. Sam DiBartolomeo in Southern CA