Addenda: Recently a warning was published either by a
USCF mechanic or by Continental to the effect that the
newest formula of Fastack will unbond the rim tape
from Continental tires. Be forewarned.
David Feldman
Vancouver, WA
> In a message dated 7/10/2002 1:56:08 PM Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> kurtsj@mtco.com writes:
>
> << So I'm asking for advice and pointers
> > for mounting new tubular tires on old rims. >>
>
> I will go ahead and answer this...
>
> Normally you would want to re-use the glue if it was
> originally done well,
> but in this case I advise removing this glue as it
> is so old and unknown
> composition.. Lacquer thinner and many rags will do
> it, but it is a smelly
> and slimy job! Clean the rim afterwards with
> alcohol (denatured) to get rid
> of the residue... I have never scored or roughened
> the rim surface but I know
> this has been done by others, so it's up to you.
>
> The tires usually need to be prestretched. Some do
> not, so the best way is to
> try them on the freshly cleaned rims before applying
> glue. If they are very
> tight, I stretch them by strongly but gently pulling
> and tugging them, using
> my hands and foot (with sock) on the carpeted floor.
> It is a little intuitive
> so just go slowly and see what you get .....After
> stretching they still
> should be a mildly snug fit on the rims....
>
> I then put the wheel in a truing stand and apply 2
> thin coats of cement.
> Allow a half an hour between coats. I personally
> like Wolber and Continental
> glue and dislike brown Clement, but to each his
> own... There are others to
> choose from as well. Fastack auto trim adhesive
> works and some folks like it,
> but it works maybe too well as it frequently pulls
> the base tape off the
> tires upon later removal.
>
> I use a piece of plastic Saran wrap around my index
> finger and spread & even
> out the glue with my finger tip. Then just throw the
> plastic away afterwards.
> Be careful not to get glue in the spoke holes or to
> go over the outside edges
> of the rim. Some folks leave the section between the
> spokes exactly opposite
> the valve with no glue to aid later removal but I do
> not...
>
> The tire should have one thin coat of glue applied,
> hopefully done in between
> the coats put on the rim. The trick to this is to
> inflate the tire just to
> the point that it turns inside out. Then with Saran
> wrap coated finger again,
> carefully smear on a coat not exceeding the area
> where the tire will contact
> the rim.
>
> Mounting the tire.. (This is the place where mere
> Amateurs are separated from
> the Aces! Ha!)
> Start by inserting the valve firmly in its hole in
> the rim. IF the tire was
> on the loose side or well stretched, you can use the
> often-recommended "2
> side progressive" method. In this method, you
> simultaneously work away from
> the valve putting BOTH sides on until you meet in
> the middle on the far side
> center. I rarely end up mounting a tire this way...
>
> The easier way is to start mounting the tire on one
> side of the valve and,
> depending upon the tightness of fit, pulling the
> valve hard in that direction
> to compensate for the last pull in the other
> direction when you work all the
> way around the wheel. Pull up and away firmly as you
> work around the wheel
> back toward the valve. The last Umph should pull the
> valve straight.
>
> In all cases, you should have let the glue set up
> long enough to not smear it
> all over the place and goo up the tires and rims.
> NOTHING is more amateur
> than glue slopped all over the tires sidewalls and
> rim! You also must pull UP
> and on when you place the tires on the rim, not
> slide them on...
>
> Once you have the tire in place, you inflate it to
> maybe 50 PSI and then spin
> the wheel and sight along the tire from the front to
> see how it is
> positioned, if it is lumpy, twisted or off center..
> If so (and it is likely)
> then you reduce the pressure and pull up and tug and
> wrestle the tire into
> some semblance of roundness and concentricity.
> Generally, good (expensive)
> tires go on pretty straight and true and conversely,
> cheap tires are always a
> bit lumpy and twisty!
>
> On cheap tires, expect a little bump at the valve..
> This usually squishes in
> after a ride or two. But if it's a bigger bump you
> may have to lift and pull
> away from the valve to stretch more tire out toward
> the opposite side.. Sewup
> tires are a bit like those "Chinese handcuffs"...
> those tubes that you put
> your fingers in and when you try to pull them apart
> they grab you... The tire
> can change it's "fatness" based upon how stretched
> it is at one point or
> another.
>
> So if you are finally satisfied with the mounting,
> pump the tire up really
> hard, 120 PSI or so and spin it again.. If
> everything looks good, deflate to
> maybe 60 PSI and let sit until the next day before
> you ride it...
>
>
> Dale Brown
> cycles de ORO, Inc.
> 1410 Mill Street
> Greensboro, NC 27408
> 336-274-5959
> fax 336-274-6360
> http://www.cyclesdeoro.com
> http://www.classicrendezvous.com
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