[CR]Protecting Hetchins Chrome


Example: Production Builders:Peugeot

Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 08:34:28 -0200
To: hetchinspete@hotmail.com, CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
From: "Harvey M. Sachs" <sachs@erols.com>
Subject: [CR]Protecting Hetchins Chrome

peter naiman wrote: >I recently purchased a 1955 Hetchins Magnum Opus Phase 2 from the >UK, the bike is stunning with a very fine repaint and rechrome. The >decals are not quite right as the seat tube decal is a 1952 >Coronation. The jpgs sent to me were somewhat in detail, so I went >ahead with the purchase. Upon receiving it, I noticed the the rear >dropouts were not right. They are shortreach horizontal Campag from >post 1975. Also, the derailleur tab had been cut of prior to >rechroming. A proper derailleur hangar from the era cannot be >fitted, as the dropout is to short. and Sheldon replied: "You haven't tried hard enough! If you leave off the bolt, and file off the alignment bump, the adaptor claw can be held in place by the skewer alone. The downside of this is that installing the rear wheel becomes slightly more complicated, but this isn't a biggie, lots of folks have loose adaptor claws. The upside is you don't mess up the chrome. Sheldon "First, Do No Harm" Brown"

There is another alternative: braze on a hanger tab. You want to find someone who understand this, but the chrome damage is caused by oxygen at high temperature. IF you can protect the chromed parts from oxygen, it won't go blue on you. I accidently discovered this while replacing a dropout that had broken, since I use a LOT of flux. The flux-protected areas didn't go blue. I've put low-visual-impact derailleur tabs on several bikes, but I would want someone much more experienced than I am to do this one. One other note: I have sometimes brazed a washer in place behind the tab to hanger joint, just to stiffen things a bit. When it cools, cut out the part of the washer that blocks wheel entry, and go ride. Hope this is clear.

harvey sachs
inside the DC Beltway