Re: [CR]A few more tips on painting

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From: "Steve Neago" <>
To: <>, <>
References: <>
Subject: Re: [CR]A few more tips on painting
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:39:32 -0500

Hi Brian,

The "professional painter" who repainted this bike was most likely a auto-body or car repainter. They use spray guns that are meant to cover large surface areas quickly - but this is not good for bike frames! Wrong equipment used = start of a bad paint job...

I had this same experience with a guy who could paint cars great, until he screwed up my Columbus tubing frame by caking on the primer and enamel paint. The bottom line is that car repainting is not the same as detailed bike frame painting...

Regards, Steve Neago "Finding better paths in Cincinnati, OH"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Baylis"
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 8:56 PM
Subject: [CR]A few more tips on painting

> Listmembers,
> Since the topic of painting bikes came up a few days ago I had the
> occassion to observe a few things on a frame that just came in. This
> frame had a recent professional paint job on it and it brought to mind a
> few things that would be helpful for you do-it-yourselfers to know
> about. These points are particularly important on earlier frames where
> there are few or no braze-ons for cable guides (both tt and bb),
> shifters, front der., and pump pegs.
> The bike had had parts clamped on but I don't think it ever got on the
> road after the repaint, or if so only for a very short time. In each
> spot where the clamps were located, the paint had "torn" away from the
> primer as the heavy coats of paint and clear were squeezed out from
> under them. Rust would have begun forming as soon as the bike would have
> been used. As Dave Feldman mentioned, the seat bolt and seat post had
> also caused chipping in addition to anywhere the wheels had been and
> where the freewheel had touched the chainstay. None of these things
> should happen to a paint job, wheather new or old. The cause of these
> problems were three things, which I will explain.
> First, in an effort to save a step, white primer was used. My experience
> has been that white primer not only doesn't stick to the bare metal as
> well as the grey-green formulation of the same stuff, but paint doesn't
> bond to it as well either. It's better to use the green primer and lay a
> coat of white down before the color than to use white primer.
> Secondly, the primer was applied way too thick. These types of primer
> are formulated to go on in one thin coat, sometimes almost so you can
> see through it. That is what gives the foundation of the paintjob its
> strength. Heavy primer coats are very weak and contribute to "thick
> looking" results by the time the painting is done. The rust inhibiting
> properties are fully intact, whereas if the paint comes off of it the
> primer won't prevent rust without paint on it.
> Third, as we discussed before, the paint layers were also too thick to
> the point that where the clamps were, one could have poured plaster in
> it and made a perfect casting of the clamp since the "walls" created by
> the paint smooshing out were so high. All of these technical aspects are
> important to attend to since a beautiful paint job is of no value if it
> doesn't hold up past the point when one starts hanging parts on the
> frame.
> So keep the primer thin and continue to the end that way if you want a
> durable finish. Thick primer may work on a classic auto with a
> hand-rubbed lacquer finish; but it's a recipe for failier on a bicycle.
> Hope this information will be of some use to you guys who like to work
> on your own stuff.
> Brian Baylis
> La Mesa, CA
> Damn, there was a bicycle under all that stuff!