Brandon Ives <monkeylad@mac.com> wrote: Personally I'd ask Brian what crank he designs for so you can get a better idea.
Here are my predictions of what Brian might say:
1) Whaaaa?
2) The one that is matched to the correct BB. That done, a properly designed frame will work with any crank.
3) Anything you want, as long as it's Campy.
Brandon, I realize that you are a very experienced mechanic, and you have built some frames, but I have to question this point regarding brand of cranks influencing frame design. My understanding is that there are only one thing to consider, which is the intended size range inner chainrings that might be used. This will dictate the position and length of the flattened area of the right chainstay, if required.
In virtually every situation where I have seen a crank-to-stay interference the chainrings were too far inboard to give proper chainline anyway (or else it was some sort of poorly-designed American CNC crank.) In other words, the BB spindle was too short for the chosen arm. Sometimes this is due to bad matching of crank and BB, sometimes it is because the crank is worn and presses too far on to the otherwise-correct spindle. In my experience, if the parts are selected to give proper chainline, there shouldn't be a stay clearance issue unless a bike desigined for a triple is used w/ a double or visa versa. While the general type of crank matters, I don't think the specific brand does. If someone wants to use something silly, like Bullseye cranks, all bets are off, but for on-topic frames and parts, I think what I say above is correct.
Tom "ready to be corrected" Dalton
Bethlehem, PA
Brandon Ives <monkeylad@mac.com> wrote:On Wednesday, November 13, 2002, at 04:38 PM,
wrote:
> My question is two-fold: how long should the spindle be? And which
> bb brands
> with have the correct taper for the Cyclone crank?
First, don't sweat the taper. The Suntour taper issue is not an issue.
Since this is a question that many on the list will face with their
classic bikes sometime I'll answer it on list.
> I'd get a Phil, but I'm cheap, and I'd like to get something used that
> would
> work.
Assuming you're using 170mm crankarms. What I would do is use a Shimano UN-72 (73 now?) in a 114mm and a few of 1.0mm and 0.5mm FW spacers. (or Phil Wood lockrings which I understand work but I've never used them) This way you can put everything together and space the drive-side out to get the right clearance. This will move the left arm towards the chainstay but it shouldn't be a problem. Personally I'd ask Brian what crank he designs for so you can get a better idea. Q-factor and Tread are one thing , but crank arm spacing is another. good luck, Brandon"monkeyman"Ives SB, CA PS: More heresy, the best place to find Shimano BBs is not Ebay, but MTBR.com.
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