I'm just going to chime in on Harvey's commnts. I had hoped to find my Hi-E price sheet but it had gone missing. So my never so great memory is the source
Eric Elman wrote with notes and questions on Hi-E hubs. I like them, but they are not w/o "idiosyncracies." Let me see if I can help with his questions. Eric's description: Front: low flange, all silver flanges and center, "Hi-E" etched in center, 16h per side. Rear: High flange (almost 3"), all silver flanges and center with "Hi-E" etched in center, threaded for a freewheel, 126mm, 24h on drove side and 16h on other.
EE: So, are these early hubs or recent hubs, about what year? I've seen a set with black centers so assume thses are older? HS: I assume earlier. I have some from the 1970s, but the 126 is slightly later than the 120s we have, I'm sure. I've never seen black centers.
Joe: The etched centers are later. The early hubs just have a reflective dot sticker. Late hubs can also have a shinu alemite finsih as an option.
EE: Is the hi-flange rear uncommon as I've never seen another? HS: I don't recall ever seeing either a low-flange rear or a hi-flange front.
Joe: I have the low flange rear. Also a high-low was common. The barrel diameter is the same so I guess some high flange fronts were made too.
EE: Why a hi-flange rear and low front? HS: No torque on front wheel, Harlan Meyer (designer/owner) advocated radial fronts. Thought - I gues, that HF gave better ability to transfer torque in the back.
EE: Why 16/24h on the rear and how would that be laced up to a 40h rim? HS: 16/24 was designed to get even spoke tension, given dishing that increases tension on drive side. Use 16 radials on left, and 24 on the right. Ah, more subtlety: Use 4x length spokes for "pulling" (counterclockwise direction from hub to rim) and 2x length for "static" spokes.
Joe: Harlan also bought undrilled Super Champion rims and then made any drilling available. Also the drilling would not be offset left-right-left etc. to accomodate these crazy patterns.
EE: These are very light - are they durable and good to use for an everyday bike or are do they lack durability and should only be used for races? HS: There were two different front hubs (at least). Front barrel <20 mm diameter is the "time trial" hub, recommended for lighter riders. My wife used hers (with superlight rims) routinely for years till she stopped riding except the tandem.
Joe: The front TT hub could not be used with a standard quick release. It was fragile. Harlan sold non-cammed quick releases that were a bit suspect. Later he added a cutting tool and matching sharp edge to the right rear axle end. Also hokey in my opinion. So the hubs in general do not benefit from or have clearances for high QR loads. This is a difference from Phil which has more play built in and is heavier but more robust. That being said I put over 40K miles on a set of Hi-E hubs and then had them rebuilt by Harlan to look like new and still ride them. I use Pino titanium skewars on these and they are a nice match.
EE: How do/did they compare on cost & quality to say Phil hubs and campagnolo Record? HS: Your HiE hubs have one weirdness about them. Like Phil, they use cartridge bearings. Unlike Phil, you have to unlace the wheel to pull the end cap/flange to replace the bearing, if it ever fails. I've never had to replace one, but don't have near the mileage on them that we have on some Phils.
Joe: Yep, tear em apart and send em back. Not a 40 minute job for me!
Joe: A final comment. Harlan has made custom width hubs for me to fit my old track bikes in 92mm and 110mm! Also his track skewars have nut type hex heads and give a neat look.
Joe