Re: [CR]Dropout spacing questions

(Example: Framebuilders:Dario Pegoretti)

Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 17:28:57 +0100
Subject: Re: [CR]Dropout spacing questions
From: "Hilary Stone" <hilary.stone@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: Daniel Artley <dartley@co.ba.md.us>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
In-Reply-To: <scf4be93.050@co.ba.md.us>


It's possible to add spacers to the axle of the ASC to bring it out to about 115-117mm. I would then have then have the rear end of the frame cold set to the required spacing and the dropouts aligned perfectly - it will be very easy and will not show - after all it is only 2mm per side. It is very important when using Sturmey gears that the dropouts are spaced correctly - incorrectly spaced dropouts are the major cause of axle breakages on Sturmey hubs. Sturmey axles are very hard - they rarely bend but do break. Standard fixed wheel hubs are either 110mm (old British standard) or 120mm across the locknuts. I am sure it is possible to respace either to your new rear end dimension - its either a question of adding about 5-7mm or taking away about 3-5mm.

Hilary Stone, Bristol, England with April showers weather

Dan Artley wrote:
> I'm the one who bought the Jack Taylor frame from Ray Etherton that is shown
> in the Cirque Photos on the CR website just posted by Dale. Its a fixed gear,
> curved seat tube path racer(?) set up for brakes. The frame's supposed to be
> 1973, though because it has older style dropouts and fork crown, I'm trying to
> set the bike up as close to '50's or '60's as I can. I just received a
> Sturmey Archer ASC 3 speed fixed gear hub from Peter Paine to go on this
> project bike. What I've found is that the ASC hub is spaced at 112.4 mm
> between locknuts, yet the frame has an approximate 121 mm. rear opening. And
> with the ASC's included wingnuts, I'm not sure if I can space the hub to fit
> the drop out spacing and still have enough threads to grip the wingnuts
> safely. I can open up the wingnuts enough to fit the track dropouts and
> tighten the frame down to it, but thats almost 9 mm of bending the stays to
> fit. The right chain stay is crimped for chainring clearance and not the left
> stay. I'm afraid that it might bend more than the left when just tightening
> the hub down. I'd prefer not to cold set the frame, because I also want the
> frame to be able to run a standard fixed set up as well. May I get some
> advice from our list's experts as to the best solution for using this hub?
> I'd prefer the hub to just slide in correctly.