Re: [CR]Now I understand Freewheels!

(Example: Framebuilders:Tony Beek)

From: "Dan Kasha" <kasha.lists@cox.net>
To: "H.M. & S.S. Sachs" <sachs@erols.com>
References: <5.2.0.9.0.20030118153009.00b01740@pop.erols.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]Now I understand Freewheels!
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 15:55:38 -0500
cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

... yuck....

I was thinking. They must have been able to put these freewheels together at the factory in a minutes time. Were they hand assembled (with jigs I would guess) or do you think they were machine assembled?

Anyone know how much a medium quality freewheel was back in
1970?
Thanks
Dan Kasha
Providence, RI


----- Original Message -----
From: "H.M. & S.S. Sachs"
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: [CR]Now I understand Freewheels!



> Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 08:52:06 -0500
> Jon M. Schaer's hint on how to put freewheels back together is helpful - if
> you already know what he's talking about. Here's another in the same
> category, I'm afraid. At least for Atom and Regina hubs, I always just put
> a loop of decent nylon thread around the body so it held the pawls in
> compression. Then the body would slide together easily. Holding it so it
> didn't open up and spill balls, just let go of one end of the thread and
> pull the other. Voila! Of course, the reason I thought to do this has to
> do with how i used to feed chicken gizzards to pet snakes, but that's off
> list, so you better not pick up that part of the (pardon me) thread. :-)
>
> harvey sachs
> mcLean va
>
> Jon said:
> At least in all the fw's I've rebuilt, there's a physical constraint that
> requires the bearing installation to be done a certain way. You'd normally
> be inclined to grease each cup race of the outer body as you would in a hub,
> and tack the balls in place. This won't work. Once the balls are placed in
> the rear race, the pawls won't compress enough to squeak past when you try
> to slide the bodies together.
>
> You have to place the rear bearings on the "cone" race of the outer body.
> Spread just enough grease on the race to tack the balls in place. Then
> you'll have to have to hold the two bodies in position and rotate the bodies
> a little until the pawls drop into the teeth, and the two will slide
> together. The front bearing set can go in the cup race of the outer body
> fine. Go lite on any grease used. Grease in the pawls can limit action
> enough to impede engagement.
>
> I use thicker oils to lube them. Phil oil is fine. 90W hypoid gear oil is
> cheap. BTW, if the fw body doesn't have an oil port already, drill one while
> you have things apart. Just not in the pawl area. Then you can re-oil by
> just removing cogs.

>

> Jon Schaer

> Columbus, OH