Re: [CR]Lacquer for Bikes

(Example: Bike Shops)

From: "David Goerndt" <davidg@iag.net>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <fb.3a6871d8.2b9fefa5@aol.com> <002701c2e8e4$f6727940$7ce6fea9@LEONARDO> <00b301c2e8e7$3a390520$57b21b18@cinci.rr.com> <200303142140.17471.zzdhalla@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: [CR]Lacquer for Bikes
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 08:50:17 -0500


[CR]Lacquer for Bikes


> Surely it depends if you are talking about enamels or baked enamels.
> People tend to be loose with terminology and much is lost in the many
> differing interpretations in different countries. Also the material to which
> these "rules" are applied changes with time.
> Anything that is crosslinked in-situe will be harder to remove or affect by
> solvents. Some solvents will swell even the "best" epoxybased paint and will
> certainly swell solvent drying base coats.
> Laquer over enamel sounds more feasible but... as thinners changed this would
> have proved wrong for some materials.
> Clear as mud?
> /dlh

My experience with lacquers and enamels comes from painting props for the theme psrk industry (80's to easrly 90's). One experience I had was painting several hovercraft for Epcot. We used One-Shot sign enamel for the decoration, then they were clear-coated with Acrylic Lacquer. The paint job started to wrinkle big time. This was THE lesson that taught me not to mix lacquer and enamels. Now I've done lots of Acrylic Lacquer color coats and used Urethane clears with no problems. So far I've not painted any frames with any of the newer paint formulations since I hung up my spray guns for a computer!

David Goerndt
Orlando, FL