I like the spoke end to fall right at the bottom of the slot in the spoke nipple. This means using different length spokes on the wheelset, but it makes the wheel easier to build, and strengthens the assembly. I have seen spoke nipples break when the spoke does not enter the actual head of the nipple, leaving all of the stress on the hollow brass (or worse, aluminum) nipples.
With tubular, and double-wall clincher rims, I think it is better to go a millimeter or so too long, than too short. If the spoke protrudes more than 2 mm from the end of the nipple, there may not be enough thread engagement, making later truing more difficult.
I have a VAR spoke nipper that I used to use to trim spokes back in the days of those long threaded Union spokes. Sometimes you just have to work with what you have at hand. Speaking of which, anyone have a set of .080/.060 chrome-plated butted Union spokes in 293 or 304, or thereabouts that they want to unload? You know, the ones that give the audible PING when they snap?
Steve Barner, spinning his wheels in Bolton, Vermont
Competitions Message-ID: <3E9625F5.4000508@nonlintec.com> References: <JHEPJNFGOMOFOGNJFGNIMECHCJAA.d.vancleve@cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 14
Doug:
Your measurements are far more reliable than the "standard" data. The manufacturers' specs are often wrong, and the info in Renard's database sometimes differs from the manufacturers' data (when you can get it, I mean!)
Finally, there are some details you probably should work out for yourself. For example: the spoke length from the equations puts the end of the spoke at the "effective rim diameter," whatever that is. The diameter in the mfr specs, and what you want, my be two different things; it depends on the spoke-nipple dimensions, which depend in turn on the spokes you use. For example, I calculate the spoke length to give me the most room for error, which means that the nipple is centered between its minimum and maximum positions as it is threaded onto the spoke. For DT spokes, this puts the spoke end about 1.2-1.5 mm below the top of the nipple head. For other spokes this may be different.
This sounds like a fine detail, but even ~1 mm error can result in spoke threads showing or the spoke protruding from the nipple. You really don't want a protruding spoke with older bikes, since the nipples may not be recessed, and contact the tube.
Steve Maas
(working too much and riding too little in)
Long Beach, California.