[CR]Grease

(Example: Framebuilders:Richard Moon)

From: "Andrew Gillis" <apgmaa@earthlink.net>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <CATFOODTh6kx86tJAG800001ac3@catfood.nt.phred.org> <001701c3066b$4435f500$6400a8c0@loewy> <3EA164BB.8080004@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 10:53:33 -0700
Subject: [CR]Grease

CRs:

My votes for grease and oil:

For all ball bearing applications, I use a black Molybdenum Disulfide grease. (MoS2). This stuff is slicker than anything else and also works better under all temperature conditions.

The particular moly grease I'm using is "Pacific Auto/Moly Lubricants" AMG-10 Wheel Bearing & All Purpose grease. (their address is shown as 5165 G Street, Chino, CA 91710). I got this grease from my father, who was a mechanical engineer.

A Google "lubricants" search lists a lot of Moly Disulfide lubricant manufacturers, so you can go take your pick from there.

For lubricating cables, stems and seatposts, I use Phil Wood grease (which I like to call "Uncle Phil"). I use Phil Wood oil for derailleur pivots and the threads of the fork and hub spindles.

I used to use Boe-shield on derailleur pivots but I found that it builds up in the corners and gets difficult to remove unless you soak the derailleur in acetone. Acetone is hard on the lungs & skin, and can remove silkscreened on logos too (relevant for the Campy Super Record, as well as the Campy 1997 - 1999 Derailleurs & Ergo on my 1996 Richard Sachs).

I use Finish Line synthetic chain oil. I've tried the wax based chain lubes and I've had them wear out in the middle of a ride and leave me with a squeaky chain. The oil based lubes are more reliable.

regards,

Andrew Gillis (beautiful cool sunny weather in Long Beach, CA)