[CR]Rustproofing

(Example: Component Manufacturers:Campagnolo)

From: "Phil Grizic" <pgrizic@haggie.co.za>
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 15:55:16 +0200
Subject: [CR]Rustproofing

I live by the coast where the humidity is very high and the rust just eats anything. What I have done to my frames is really an overkill but I'm sure that it will beat the rust bug. On frames that require a respray I clean the inside of the tubes as best I can. I work for a steel wire rope manufacturer and get the guys in the workshop to make me up a brush out of 10 mm steel wire rope that is about half a metre long. I put the one side in a drill and the other side in the bicycle tube. Start the drill and the steel brush does the rest - cleaning all the rust out of the tube. You can also do it manually if you want. I make smaller brushes for the seat stays. It is amazing how much surface rust comes off. I then clean the inside of the tubes with thinners to remove the dust etc and then spray metal primer into the tubes, turn the tubes so that all sides are covered and then release the rest. Then it is off to the spray painter. I normally strip the outside paint off before I give it to the spray painter and sand it so that it is basically ready for spraying. After the respray I leave the bare frame for at least a month to properly dry. Then I spray a local rust preventative called Tectyl 506 into all the tubes - it is probably something like your Framesaver which we cannot get in this country. I give the frame 2 to 3 coats of this normally about a few days apart so that the rust preventative can semi dry. Then after a few more days I put linseed oil into the tubes again releasing any excess. A few days later I repeat the linseed oil treatment. Then leave the bike to dry for a week or so and then rebuild it. Any excess Tectyl or linseed oil on the outside of the frame should be cleaned off after each operation with paraffin. On frames that do not require respraying I normally leave out the metal primer as I am a bit scared of that paint on the outside paint and cleaning it off. I know this is an overkill but the cost of the materials is small - all it takes is your time. I gives me piece of mind that there is very little chance of rust from the inside developing. Regards Phil Grizic Durban - South Africa

-----Original Message----- From: Bingham, Wayne R. [SMTP:WBINGHAM@imf.org] Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 8:25 PM To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Was Rustproofing - Now LPS Products

Paolo wrote: >>>I am using LPS 3 from the hardware store to rustproof a Mondonico. Then there is the Weigle spray can.<<<

While I feel that Weigle's Framesaver is probably superior to LPS 3 for bike frame internal application, LPS 3 is a good rust preventative and a viable option. There are also other excellent products in the LPS line that are well suited to bicycle restoration and maintenance. I've used them this way successfully for many years, even though I first learned of them through the electronics industry. I highly recommend some of them, and thought I'd pass it along. Some of their cleaners and degreasers are excellent, and I use them fairly extensively.

Precision Clean is a good all purpose cleaner, particularly for frames. Works equally well for dirt, light grease, oil and tar. It's water-based and leaves a slight film, which can be wiped away with a clean cloth. Sort of a more serious version of your general household cleaner.

Electro Contact Cleaner is a very light degreaser that evaporates very quickly and leaves no residue. It's safe for almost any surface and can also be used as a release agent.

PreSolve is a cleaner/degreaser that's highly effective on metal surfaces, but also safe for most plastic, which makes is nice for rear derailleurs. It penetrates well and, combined with compressed air and/or a small brush, dislodges crud from even the most remote crevices. Leaves almost no residue.

Instant Super Degreaser is the "more serious" degreaser. Thin enough for good penetration on intricate mechanisms, but still safe enough for fine finishes.

LPS 1 is a light, greaseless lubricant that displaces moisture, dries fast and leaves a thin film of lubricant that doesn't attract dirt too badly. My lubricant of choice for all "external" mechanisms such as derailleurs, brake calipers and levers.

LPS 2 is a heavy duty lubricant that is better suited to tools than bicycle components, but also works well on things that can use a thin oil coating, such as skewers, axles and derailleur set screws.

I don't work for LPS, so I get no kick-back. Just thought I'd share some of my experience.

Wayne Bingham Falls Church VA _______________________________________________ Classicrendezvous mailing list Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous

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