[CR]Heat Gun versus Open Flame was Frozen Stem / Seatpost


Example: Framebuilders:Mario Confente

From: "Raoul Delmare" <Raoul.L.Delmare@worldnet.att.net>
To: "C.R. List" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <BB296B8B.2472%mail@woodworkingboy.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 09:12:51 -0500
Subject: [CR]Heat Gun versus Open Flame was Frozen Stem / Seatpost

( Hi Ya Dennis ! )

To avoid damage to paint , decals , stickers , etc. , etc. ,

You can use a hot-air heat-gun ,

Instead of the open flame of a torch .

Sometimes a damp towel can be useful . Don't put water into the already corroded joints . Remember that heat guns can get really hot too . Heat guns are sometimes used as paint removers . Be careful .

Stem , seat-post , whatever , heating and cooling can really help three ( 3 ) ways . First , the cycles of heating and cooling can physically break the fused layers of corrosion . Second , the cycles of heating and cooling can really help move the Liquid-Wrench or the Kroil or whatever , into the tight places your trying to get them into . Third , you can try to expand the outer part , while not expanding the inner part ( keep one hot & keep the other cool ) .

And , as always , this is not what WD-40 was designed for , and not what it's best at doing . WD-40 was designed to form a long-lasting varnish-like film .

Raoul Delmare
Marysville Kansas


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Young"
To:
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 7:11 AM
Subject: [CR]Frozen stem



> and if this doesn't work, or Steve's tip, or liquid wrench, I'd suggest
> trying heat. Heat temporarily expands the metal and will loosen a rust
> hold. If the headtube isn't too long, a fine pointed flame from a torch
> directed onto the lower part of the stem from the fork underside might
> accomplish the task. It might be a trick to not fry the paint on the head
> tube. Maybe wrapping it with a cold wet towel may help. Instead of cooking
> the stem, try alternating relatively short bursts of heat with tapping from
> above and then trying to wrench the thing loose. Let it cool a bit before
> trying to loosen it. Small gas torches with disposable cartridges that are
> available at hardware stores are handy to use. If a frame maker at the list
> can think of a reason why this is a dumb idea, I stand corrected. I relate
> this method since it has worked on frozen bottom brackets. Be careful of
> too much heat!
>
> Dennis Young
> Hotaka, Japan
>
>
> > Jimmy Thompsen (who has a fabulous Hetchins collection) has asked me to
> > forward this...
> >
> >
> > << ......about the man who cannot get his extension out of the steering tube,
> > tell him to turn his frame upside down and pour PEPSI COLA down the steering
> > tube and let it soak for about an hour.... it should help free any corrosion
> > and allow the parts to separate.
> >
> > Good Luck
> > Jimmy.T. >>