re [CR]Help with a raleigh international

(Example: Production Builders:Peugeot:PX-10LE)

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 16:07:07 -0500
From: "Steve Kurt" <kurtsj@mtco.com>
To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: re [CR]Help with a raleigh international
References:
In-Reply-To:


Dan asked a number of questions about a recently aquired Raleigh International...

From: dan kasha <dankasha@yahoo.com> 1) The rear drop out spacing seems to measure at about 124mm, should it be 120mm or 122mm? I think it is close enough that I won't worry about it, but would like to know.

my reply: the bike started out as 120mm, to handle a 5 speed freewheel. I'd probably leave it as it is, use a 6 speed Suntour Ultra freewheel, and adjust the axle spacers to minimize the wheel dish.

From: dan kasha <dankasha@yahoo.com> 2) The rear hub (large flange campy NR) seems to have an axle that is too long. I measure about 6.5mm extra on EACH side, so a total length of about 124mm+13mm or 137mm. So the previous owner had to use an modern skewer with enough of a concave for the protruding axle. Can I cut the axle? What is the best technique? If not, where is a good source for campy axles, washers, etc?

my reply: I've cut off axles using a hacksaw or dremel tool. Leave the locknuts on the axle prior to cutting, and use them to help clean up the threads afterwards. Most bike shops can supply you with standard length axles too, so you might check with your LBS first.

From: dan kasha <dankasha@yahoo.com> 3) Weinmann brake parts seem HARD to find. The brake levers are cheap campys (plastic body?) with poor fitting campy hoods. I have gotten some Weinmann levers that I think are right, but there are some issues. Seems there needs to be a small aluminum piece at the top for the cable housing. And ofcourse hoods seem hard to get, especially the white Carlton variety. Any hints? I did buy on ebay (yet to receive) some schwinn wienmann levers because they seemed to have al the right pieces. But they seem like a slightly different model, with grey cables and grey adjusters. They should work for now, but I do hope to get it right soon. Also, I have black and read shoes, which would have been there originally?

my reply: Check ebay, or with the CR members. Also check your LBS's junk box. If all else fails, check the Salvation Army or Goodwill for a bike with Weinmann or DiaCompe levers of that era. I wouldn't be that excited about the plastic white hoods. They do look nice, especially when using white bar tape, but the hoods are not comfortable. I prefer using gum hoods, which I think are available from shops via the Quality Bicycle Products catalog. The original brake shoes were red. The red Kool-stop brake pads work quite nicely.

From: dan kasha <dankasha@yahoo.com> 4) Handle bars seem like they came off another model, such as the GS. They are relatively narrow and though the top section is flat, the sides slope outwards a good amount (viewed from the front, they look more like / \ if that makes sense). Does this seem right for the bike? They look authentic british, and the stem is a GB with a 11 or 12 mm nut on top. Any input is welcome.

my reply: Sounds like you did get the randonneur bars from the Gran Sport. The original bars were a standard Maes bend; about 38cm wide. Use 'em if you like them. Otherwise, GB bars show up on ebay. You might even decide to install some Nitto bars if you want the comfort of wider bars. Personally, I don't mind 38cm bars, but prefer something 42cm wide.

From: dan kasha <dankasha@yahoo.com> 5) Seems that unlike my Peugeot's, the lettering is not protected on these bikes. Is there a good way to clear coat them to protect them, or should I leave them as they are?

my reply: I had Brian Baylis apply a light clear coat to my '74 International, and it looks great. Brian applied a thin enough coat to make it not obvious, but still sufficient to protect those delicate decals/transfers.

From: dan kasha <dankasha@yahoo.com> 6) The rims were changed to an anodized mavic clincher. I have a set of nice NOS AVA aluminum tubular rims that seem to have the right look and are from the right era. Any thoughts on if these are close to what might have been there? Seems it was not specified in the catalogs.

my reply: Nice AVA rims? Well.... the rims from my '74 aren't exactly what I'd call nice, but they sorta worked. They used washers under the spoke nipple instead of a proper grommet, but that wasn't unusual. They also deformed a bit due to the spoke tension. Personally, I'd recommend a nice non- anodized clincher rim, if you can find one. The Torelli Master rim fits this description, but it is often difficult to get tires mounted on it.

From: dan kasha <dankasha@yahoo.com> 7) The front outer chainring is a 54 - not too useful for me right now. The inner is a 42. What is the smallest campy outer ring that I can use (it is a 144BDC)? Was there a 50 or 51?

my reply: Yep, the BCD is 144mm. Nuovo Record rings are getting harder to find nowdays, but they are around. I think Campy made just about every size of ring. A look at the old Cyclo-Pedia catalog shows 42 to 55 teeth: http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/catalogs/cyclo-pedia-74/ (click on page 13 of the catalog) I've installed the TA rings, made in the style of the Super Record rings, on my 74 International. Not exactly correct, but much easier to find!

Good luck with the International!

Steve Kurt
Peoria, IL