Re: [CR]Need Dura Ace Barcon Adjustment tips


Example: Production Builders:Cinelli:Laser

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:47:17 -0800 (PST)
From: David Feldman <feldmanbike@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]Need Dura Ace Barcon Adjustment tips
To: Joe Bender-Zanoni <joebz@optonline.net>, "Thomas R. Adams, Jr." <kctommy@msn.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
In-Reply-To: <006501c39ddb$3013aba0$6400a8c0@jfbender>


Here's an adjustment method: Install the shifters, run and fasten the cables, adjust stops on both derailleurs (yes, this can be done without shifters connected) and then put both shift levers in the "down" position, tightening the friction screws so that the levers can't be moved by the derailleur spring. Connect the derailleur cables, applying the tension you think is correct for the cable in slack position, and then back the lever friction screws off until the amount of friction vs. spring tension in the lever is to your liking. To my taste, this is one of the best shift levers ever made and it's a shame that Shimano never used the spring mechanism in a down tube
lever.
David Feldman
Vancouver, WA


--- Joe Bender-Zanoni wrote:


> >From what I remember setting these up it always

\r?\n> seemed sketchy and then I

\r?\n> got the spring and friction balanced and they

\r?\n> worked.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> They didn't come on many bikes. These were Maruishi

\r?\n> bikes with Shimano

\r?\n> derailleurs.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> A pair of these came on the LeJeune I bought

\r?\n> recently so I need to take them

\r?\n> off. Anyone want to swap for Huret or Simplex?

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Joe Bender-Zanoni

\r?\n> Great Notch, NJ

\r?\n> ----- Original Message -----

\r?\n> From: "Thomas R. Adams, Jr." <kctommy@msn.com>

\r?\n> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>

\r?\n> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 9:40 PM

\r?\n> Subject: [CR]Need Dura Ace Barcon Adjustment tips

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Well, another project is shaping up, as the MKM

\r?\n> frame I stole from Tom Hayes

\r?\n> on eBay is about to return from the painters (light

\r?\n> blue with gold lug

\r?\n> lining), so it's time to spend the dark nights

\r?\n> cobbling together the sub

\r?\n> assemblies. The toe clips are on the pedals, the

\r?\n> new freewheel is on the

\r?\n> hub, and the Nitto raundoneur bars are sporting a

\r?\n> Superbe stem, Dura Ace 1st

\r?\n> gen brake levers and barcons.

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> This is my first experience with the early non

\r?\n> indexing Shimano barcons.

\r?\n> They mount in the normal Suntour manner, in that you

\r?\n> unscrew the cross bolt

\r?\n> and remove the lever body to access the hidden allen

\r?\n> bolt in the shifter

\r?\n> pod, slide the pod into the bar end, tighten and

\r?\n> then slide the shifter arm

\r?\n> back in. The difference is that instead of a "retro

\r?\n> friction" ratchet

\r?\n> mechanism ala Suntour or a straight "friction"

\r?\n> arrangement ala Campy, these

\r?\n> babies sport a fairly strong spring loading on the

\r?\n> shift lever that pulls

\r?\n> the lever into the full extension position. That

\r?\n> is, the lever wants to

\r?\n> point straight up in the sky, as if the lever is

\r?\n> pulling all the cable it

\r?\n> possibly can. The directions indicate (when was the

\r?\n> last time I had the

\r?\n> actual directions when installing any of my stuff?)

\r?\n> that you next reinstall

\r?\n> the cross bolt that holds the lever to the pod and

\r?\n> start tightening. When

\r?\n> the cross bolt is almost snug, you pull the lever

\r?\n> down against the spring to

\r?\n> the full down position, hold i

\r?\n> t there with one hand while holding the bars with

\r?\n> your other hand and then

\r?\n> finish tightening the bolt with your third hand.

\r?\n> (This is why Brian B has

\r?\n> that third arm growing out of his back.) When you

\r?\n> snug down the retention

\r?\n> bolt all the way, it holds the lever in place in the

\r?\n> full down position

\r?\n> against the lever spring's tension. Then, when the

\r?\n> derailleurs and cables

\r?\n> are installed and the derailleur springs are tugging

\r?\n> on the cable in

\r?\n> opposition to the shift lever springs, you slack off

\r?\n> the cross bolt 1/2 to

\r?\n> 3/4 of a turn until the derailleur spring tension

\r?\n> perfectly matches the

\r?\n> lever spring, and viola: super light shifter

\r?\n> action!

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Naturally I'm skeptical. How well does the

\r?\n> retention bolt retain it's

\r?\n> adjustment? As strong as the lever springs are, are

\r?\n> they a match the

\r?\n> derailleur springs? Wouldn't the lever spring and

\r?\n> the derailleur spring

\r?\n> have to be of roughly equivalent strength for the

\r?\n> system to work well? Does

\r?\n> this mean these shift levers will only work well

\r?\n> with Shimano derailleurs?

\r?\n> Will the springs weaken over time? If this system

\r?\n> works so great, why did

\r?\n> Suntour's retro friction kick Shimano's tail?

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> If anyone out there has any tips on setting these up

\r?\n> or war stories of

\r?\n> pitfalls to avoid, I'd appreciate the help.

\r?\n> Fortunately I have a nice

\r?\n> Crane GS rear unit and Chris Van Scoyk is sending me

\r?\n> an early Dura Ace

\r?\n> front, so I may be all set on system compatability,

\r?\n> if that helps any.

\r?\n> Can't wait to try her out.

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Tom Adams, Shrewsbury NJ

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> ------------------------------------------

\r?\n>

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