In my experience, this is all quite true. Interesting, isn't it, that proper operation requires delicate internal adjustment, not just the obvious external ones.
Another problem is the ball-bearing pulley wheels, especially the jockey wheel. If the bearing load is even a little loose, the pulleys wobble and shifting is sloppy. (Or, to be precise, sloppier than normal...)
Steve Maas Long Beach, CA
Mark A. Perkins wrote:
> Hi all:
> My first 10-spd. had this derailleur, and I had to learn how to make it
> work. Later on I worked in a Schwinn bike shop where I assembled
> countless bikes with this same derailleur, and they all went out the door
> working just fine. Here's what one needs to do to make them work
> The Parallelogram pieces are held together with small bolts and nuts.
> One of the two pieces that each bolt goes through has a smooth hole and
> the other has threads. You have to adjust the bolt's tightness so that
> the two parts are neither too loose nor too tight, then tighten the nut
> (it's a locknut) against the piece with the threads. Sometimes it takes
> a couple of tries to get the tension just right. This locks the bolt in
> place so that the other piece can pivot freely and smoothly on the shank
> of the bolt. One must do this with every bolt and nut on the
> parallelogram. If you do not check them all you take the chance of one
> of the nuts being loose and eventually falling off. If there is any play
> or slop between the parallelogram pieces, it will allow the cage to pivot
> or twist sideways when you shift. After adjusting every nut and bolt, a
> drop of oil on each pivot will help it work even better.
> Furthermore, if one of the parallelogram parts gets bent in any way it
> will prevent the derailleur from working properly. You also have to find
> the correct spring tension on the cage, there are usually two or three
> hooks on the cage for this, and usually only one setting really works
> I think a lot of people were unable to figure this out, and other than
> the fact that they are cheap and heavy, that's why they don't like these
> derailleurs. I also think that these derailleurs work just fine for
> bikes like Schwinn put them on.
> Most derailleurs don't require this amount of work, all you need to do is
> adjust the cable tension and the limit screws and you're off. I knew
> mechanics that had to be shown how to adjust these derailleurs, because
> they couldn't figure them out.
> That's my 2-cents worth on this subject.
> "Bicycle Mark" Perkins
> Fresno Cycling Club - Historian
> Fresno, California, U.S.A.