[CR]Cutting a steering tube


Example: Framebuilders:Richard Moon
From: "jerrymoos" <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <d0.3bfda288.2c37b67a@aol.com> <019d01c34300$846469a0$efddfea9@mooshome>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 09:52:46 -0500
Subject: [CR]Cutting a steering tube

I have a couple of new frames (a Bates and a Caygill) on which I need to cut the steering tube to fit. Believe it or not, despite having about 3 dozen bikes, I've never had to do this before. My first few bikes weere bought as complete bikes, and the ones I bought as framesets were mostly used, or in a couple of cases (like a custom-built Romic track frame) I specificed what headset I was going the use, so I've just never had the need to cut a steerer before.

Of course, one can take the crude approach and just attack the thing with a hacksaw, but I'm thinking many on the list may have some techniques and tricks to share for getting an even cut, avoiding damage to the steerer threads, and getting the length just right. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Even us old farts ocassionally have a newbie question.

Regards,

Jerry Moos
Houston, TX


----- Original Message -----
From: jerrymoos
To: CYCLESTORE@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: [CR]Re: Strong and Light



> I might add that Stronglight model 93 (probably the one you have), will
> allow a wider choice of chainwheels, as small as 38 teeth, than the old
> Campy NR/SR, which couldn't go below 41 teeth. And Stronglight cranks did
> not suffer the cracks which sometimes developed in Campy cranks. I agree
> with Gilbert that these cranks are well worth keeping.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Houston, TX
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CYCLESTORE@aol.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 12:04 AM
> Subject: [CR]Re: Strong and Light
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/4/03 11:29:21 PM,
> classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org
> writes:
>
> >Bryon,
> >
> >I bought a Stronglight crank puller from Harris Cyclery. It cost $49.00
> >but it worked on a crank that was stuck for years. Stronglight cranks
> >are 23.35mm. It helps to have a 19mm box end wrench to use with this tool
> >
> >Daniel S. Swords
> >New Orleans, LA
> >
> >Bryon Wright <Starstryke25@netscape.net> wrote:
> >thanks for the help on removing the dustcaps. I then went to remove the
> >crankarms and my crankarm pullers are too small to fit the seemingly
> oversized
> >crankarm thread (I can just pop the entire threaded part of the tool in
> >without touching the crankarm threads). Can anyone suggest a tool to use
> >to remove these crankarms? Also, will a modern crankset fit onto the bottom
> >bracket that the Stronglight crankset was attached too.
> >
> >-Bryon "the newb" Wright
> >Antioch, CA
>
> Hi all,
>
> Daniel is correct. The TA tool side of the Park reversible tool will pull
> threads out of the old Stronglight. An old shop should have the tool so you
> have
> a cheapie source certainly if you pay them. I'd advise putting in a Phil
> (designed to fit) and keep the crank if the ring range is good for you as a
> well
> maintained Stronglight crank is as long lasting (and light) as your might
> find
> anywhere from my experience. They can polish up like a mirror too.
>
> Looking around I have Stronglight (new and vintage) along with a few TA
> (Cyclotourist) cranks on everything I ride (6 bikes not including a few
> roadsters).
> The new cranks (Stronglight and TA) are hard to find but very nice as
> well.
>
> I need a life man,
>
> Gilbert Anderson
>
> North Road Bicycle Company
> 519 W. North St.
> Raleigh, NC 27603
> USA
> Toll Free Ph: 800\u2022321\u20225511
> Local Ph: 919\u2022828\u20228999
> E-mail: cyclestore@aol.com