Re: [CR]Raleigh International '75 product recall? - Was... Help with a raleigh international

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From: "Steve Neago" <questor@cinci.rr.com>
To: "dan kasha" <dankasha@yahoo.com>
References: <20030903171948.88452.qmail@web80602.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]Raleigh International '75 product recall? - Was... Help with a raleigh international
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 07:51:27 -0400
cc: classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>

Hi Dan,

I seem to remember there was a Raleigh product recall/warning on the Raleigh International USA model in the 74-75 time frame.

If memory serves me correctly, the 73-74 frames were returned on a case by case basis back to Raleigh USA because the seat tube would occasionally loosen from the bottom bracket mounting. The seat tube problem on Raleigh Internationals occured more often with heavier riders where the weight would place additional stress on the frame joints. Shop repair was difficult at best (no frame jigs available) and matching paint was practically impossible. We did not have this problem with Raleigh Professionals, Competitions, nor Super Courses.

Rumor at that time was that Raleigh Internationals prior to 1975 had seat tubes that were "steam fitted" and NOT welded into the BB. This seat tube was the only joint apparently treated this way and its failure would invoke a product warranty claim. Maybe these problems came from a "bad run" of Raleigh frames at that time, or may this was a stubborn Raleigh manufacturing tradition, but I don't know. I do remember some Raleigh Internationals that had to be returned to the factory with seat tube - BB problems.

The Raleigh bike shop that I worked at at the time tried to discourage these product returns because we would have to strip a frame of its parts, send it back for replacement, and then re-assemble the parts on the frame at no charge to the customer. The bike shop would not be reimbursed by Raleigh for the extra labor of removing nor re-adding the parts onto the frame. Perhaps this was considered part of the dealer cost for franchising the Raleigh dealership at that time. The customer would have to wait up to a couple of months for a frame replacement from Raleigh.

My boss at that time encouraged us to sell the customer another high end bike and take the Raleigh International as a trade-in with price reduction on the next bike. We could strip the frames for parts later and send in several frames at a time back to Raleigh for warranty claims. During the off-season bike selling periods, we would reassemble the frames with parts when time allowed.

Regards, Steve Neago
Cincinnati, OH


----- Original Message -----
From: dan kasha
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Cc: dankasha@yahoo.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 1:19 PM
Subject: [CR]Help with a raleigh international



> I finally have a clean (enough) garage to start working on a Raleigh International that I got a few month back. I have a number of questions, but first I'll give a basic description of the bike.
>
> I think it is about a 1973 or 1974. It is the silver color, with white lettering and ofcourse chrome lugs. The stays are the rapid taper, with no dents. The frame is in great shape, with a minimal amount of wear on the decals. The only major flaw (I have so far found) is that there is a bit of paint bubbling where a water bottle was mounted on the down tube. Another clamp on water bottle cage should hide most of it. From what I can tell, a number of the components have been replaced, or at least mucked with.
>
> Here are the questions, help with any or all are welcome, thanks in advance!
>
> 1) The rear drop out spacing seems to measure at about 124mm, should it be 120mm or 122mm? I think it is close enough that I won't worry about it, but would like to know.
>
> 2) The rear hub (large flange campy NR) seems to have an axle that is too long. I measure about 6.5mm extra on EACH side, so a total length of about 124mm+13mm or 137mm. So the previous owner had to use an modern skewer with enough of a concave for the protruding axle. Can I cut the axle? What is the best technique? If not, where is a good source for campy axles, washers, etc?
>
> 3) Weinmann brake parts seem HARD to find. The brake levers are cheap campys (plastic body?) with poor fitting campy hoods. I have gotten some Weinmann levers that I think are right, but there are some issues. Seems there needs to be a small aluminum piece at the top for the cable housing. And ofcourse hoods seem hard to get, especially the white Carlton variety. Any hints? I did buy on ebay (yet to receive) some schwinn wienmann levers because they seemed to have al the right pieces. But they seem like a slightly different model, with grey cables and grey adjusters. They should work for now, but I do hope to get it right soon. Also, I have black and read shoes, which would have been there originally?
>
> 4) Handle bars seem like they came off another model, such as the GS. They are relatively narrow and though the top section is flat, the sides slope outwards a good amount (viewed from the front, they look more like / \ if that makes sense). Does this seem right for the bike? They look authentic british, and the stem is a GB with a 11 or 12 mm nut on top. Any input is welcome.
>
> 5) Seems that unlike my Peugeot's, the lettering is not protected on these bikes. Is there a good way to clear coat them to protect them, or should I leave them as they are?
>
> 6) The rims were changed to an anodized mavic clincher. I have a set of nice NOS AVA aluminum tubular rims that seem to have the right look and are from the right era. Any thoughts on if these are close to what might have been there? Seems it was not specified in the catalogs.
>
> 7) The front outer chainring is a 54 - not too useful for me right now. The inner is a 42. What is the smallest campy outer ring that I can use (it is a 144BDC)? Was there a 50 or 51?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help. I have some pictures I can email and will get them up on a site soon.
>
> Thanks
> Dan Kasha
> Salt Lake City Utah (can I abreviate to SLC?)
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