Re: [CR]How to "varnish fix" a transfer???

Jim,

OK, one more time for the team. It has been quite a while since I explained this esoteric process.

Use ONLY Man-0-War "Marine Spar Varnish" or "gold size" made for afixing gold leaf. Spread a medium thin layer evenly and consistent over the back of the decal. First peel up one tiny part if a corner and seperate it slightly from the backing, so it will be easy to remove when the varnish is ready. Let sit until the varnish is tacky. If you lightly touch the varnish and you can pick up the decal with your finger, it's ready. Depending on the age of your varnish, temp and humidity, it may take from 15 to 30 or 40 mins. to get tacky. Remove paper backing.

Apply decal to clean dry surface ang gently rub down, starting from the center and moving outwards, once you have the decal properly placed. You can lightly tack the decal on in many cases so you can measure it for centeredness and so on. Go back every fe minutes and re-rub from the center until the decal has been on for at least five minutes. Then use a soft sponge or folded paper towel soaked in clean warm water and gently pat down the tissue paper until it will slide around and release completely from the decal. Remove soaked tissue. Then use regular kerosene as the solvent to remove the excess varnish around the decal. Just dip the tip of your finger in the kerosene and gently wipe the varnish off and dilute gently with water and sponge, dabbing not rubbing until the varnish residue is rinsed and wiped away with warm water. Pat dry with soft cloth or dry paper towel. There are other "tricks" too lengthy to explain; but this is all this person needs.

Stay away from "clear lacquer". Expreiment first, apply clear finish with an air brush. I only use clear Imron over decals. I don't know anything beyond that. Every paint is different, you're on your own here.

Brian Baylis
La Mesa, CA