[CR]Help recalling 80's frame builder

(Example: Books)

From: "Tucker Bunch" <tbunch@crescentcitybeignets.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 11:19:10 -0500
In-Reply-To: <CATFOODcK8r6beUzmRf00004b50@catfood.nt.phred.org>
Subject: [CR]Help recalling 80's frame builder

Does anyone remember a European (Italian?) frame builder from the late 1980's that built steel frames with a wishbone seat stay? Some of the interesting features of the frames were ultra short chain stays that required an indentation in the seat tube, also, the seat stay above the brake bridge was made of a large (1-plus inch) diameter tube. Mondonico is the only frame builder that I can find that used a wishbone on steel frames, but his design differs substantially from the frame builder that I remember.

Anyone remember?

Tucker Bunch, Houston Tx.

-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 8:03 PM To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 20, Issue 7

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CR

Today's Topics:

1. installing gum hoods (Jay Sexton) 2. Gipiemme-Simplex? (r cielec) 3. Re: Gipiemme-Simplex? (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos) 4. Re: installing gum hoods (WD Baseley) 5. A nice Tesch on Ebay (Charles Nighbor) 6. Taurea bicycles (Aldo Ross) 7. Wheel swap wanted (Ken Sanford) 8. Re: Lubricant for Gum Hoods? (Joe Bender-Zanoni) 9. Re Installing Campy hoods. 10. Was DeRosa!/C.Andrews and now childish behaviour (brucerobbins) 11. Claud Butlers Methods of Frame Construction (Michael Butler) 12. Hercules "Herailleur" info sought! (Paul Williams) 13. Pic of the Day 3rd August - Demi-Fond 1923 (Aldo Ross) 14. Re: Lubricant for Gum Hoods? (cmontgomery) 15. So ... My Aussie Speedwell is old .... perhaps older than some of you ;-) (Professore di Pimpissimo) 16. '70s ARGOS questions... (Duane Kennard) 17. Re: Lubricant for Gum Hoods? (sam Lingo) 18. Re: TTT Stem Size (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)

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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 12:23:26 -0700 From: Jay Sexton <jvs@sonic.net> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]installing gum hoods Message-ID: <410E94AE.1060709@sonic.net> In-Reply-To: <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org> References: <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 1

I have to weigh in on this. I say no no no to brake fluid. Here's my .01 cent.

Quite by accident, when washing a set of hoods which were on levers, the warm water loosened them up enough that they slid off the levers quite nicely, even though I didn't want to take them off. As an experiment, I took the hoods off of the levers and ran cold water over them to cool them down. Then, I gave 'em a warm water dose to soften them up, slid them back on the levers slick as you know what, let them cool, and voila! No stretching, tearing, or anxiety that I WOULD tear them as I installed them. And these were 20 year old hoods. So, my suggestion....wet and warm. And no petrochemicals to break down the hoods. Try it and let me know if it works for you. Jay Sexton Sebastopol, CA

Brake fluid. Been keeping my ol gummies alive for years with just a very thin coating of the stuff. Desert dryness and UV does a number on them here.

Craig Montgomery in Tucson

From: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
>> Ahoy !
>> OK, I admit, a very uptight question.
>> As many modern dishwashing soaps and laundry detergents are
>> formulated to
>
> disintergrate organic matter, and many oils and greases are formulated to resist disintegration, what are some good lubricants to assist with safely installing gum hoods onto brake levers?
>> I was going to use basic Castille bath soap.
>> In a lather,
>> Richard Cielec
>> Chicago, Illinois
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 12:38:07 -0700 (PDT) From: r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Gipiemme-Simplex? Message-ID: <20040802193807.14736.qmail@web52001.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 2

Ahoy! I assume this is an IT query. Please accept my apology if not. I have some front and rear mechs. with Gipiemme livery but are clearly by casting, stampings and such Simplex SLJ and something else which I cannot recall at the moment. Does anyone know for certain when Gipiemme "partnered" with Simplex? Thanks. Richard Cielec Chicago, Illinois

--------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 12:55:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net> To: r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]Gipiemme-Simplex? Message-ID: <20040802195553.11664.qmail@web81007.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <20040802193807.14736.qmail@web52001.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 3

In the 80's, but I don't know exactly how long or what years. Wasn't much partnering, Gipiemme just slapped their name on Simplex stuff and sold it. Let them offer a complete gruppo I guess.

Regards,

Jerry Moos Houston, TX

r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com> wrote: Ahoy! I assume this is an IT query. Please accept my apology if not. I have some front and rear mechs. with Gipiemme livery but are clearly by casting, stampings and such Simplex SLJ and something else which I cannot recall at the moment. Does anyone know for certain when Gipiemme "partnered" with Simplex? Thanks. Richard Cielec Chicago, Illinois

--------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!

_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 15:57:59 -0400 From: WD Baseley <wdb@pobox.com> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]installing gum hoods Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.2.20040802153502.05524178@pop.mindspring.com> In-Reply-To: <410E94AE.1060709@sonic.net> References: <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org> <CATFOODfU9JzXYjItaM00004a8f@catfood.nt.phred.org> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 4

At 12:23 PM 8/2/2004 -0700, Jay Sexton ushered forth:
> I say no no no to brake fluid.

I would have to agree, not because of what it might do to the hoods but because of what it would do to just about every other part of the bike. Brake fluid is nasty stuff. Definitely keep it far away from any

painted surface!
> As an experiment, I took the hoods off of the levers and ran cold
> water
> over them to cool them down. Then, I gave 'em a warm water dose to
> soften them up, slid them back on the levers slick as you know what, let
> them cool, and voila!

This is a great technique that works well for a wide variety of rubber parts. I used to use this method to install windshields in cars back when they had rubber seals holding them in.

Regards, Dave Baseley in sunny, muggy Berks County PA

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 13:24:14 -0700 From: "Charles Nighbor" <cnighbor@pacbell.net> To: "Classic Rendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]A nice Tesch on Ebay Message-ID: <000701c478ce$af82d680$690bad40@cnighbor> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 5

83 2/2 JOHN HOWARD ROAD BIKE SHIMANO CAMPAGNOLO 57CM HAND BUILT by DAVID TESCH, COLUMBUS Item number: 3692051762=20

Not the seller Charles Nighbor in Walnut Creek, Ca

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:29:35 -0400 From: "Aldo Ross" <aldoross4@siscom.net> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Taurea bicycles Message-ID: <000801c478cf$77ce7900$6cf9fea9@j4g1x1> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 6

Did someone on the list buy the Taurea bike on eBay from Alesandro Nati = in Italy?

Aldo Ross Blue Ball, Ohio

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:54:35 -0400 From: "Ken Sanford" <kanford@comcast.net> To: <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Wheel swap wanted Message-ID: <017901c478d2$eba52330$6401a8c0@D5FSLZ21> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 7

Greeting

I recently acquired a 70's Cinelli SC that came with Campy HF clincher = wheels.

As I prefer sewups, was wondering in anyone might be willing to swap a = similar sewup pair. These wheels as described in auction - ebay item = 3684841698

Wheels: Rims are NOS alloy, Mavic MA 2, just laced onto Campagnolo hubs. =

Hubs: Campagnolo Hi-flange. (32H front, 36H rear)

Tires: Vittoria Competition, Kevlar. 700 x 22C All black

These have the flat skewers and are probably of mid-70's vintage. I can = take jpegs if necessary. Some slight pitting on hub faces. Bearings = feel good.

please contact me off list. A local or semi-local swap preferred.

thanks

Ken Sanford

Kensington, MD

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Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 17:22:55 -0400 From: Joe Bender-Zanoni <joebz@optonline.net> To: cmontgomery <cmontgomery15@cox.net>, r cielec <teaat4p@yahoo.com>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods? Message-ID: <002301c4780d$b6142ce0$6400a8c0@jfbender> References: <20040802012004.34201.qmail@web52003.mail.yahoo.com> <003f01c47859$2ee2e260$d18fe744@D687QV01> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: list Message: 8

Now this really makes sense. Brake fluid has to be compatible with at least synthetic rubber seals. Anyone know more? And also what type brake fluid?

Joe Bender-Zanoni
Great Notch, NJ


----- Original Message -----
From: cmontgomery
To: r cielec
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 2:23 AM
Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods?



> Brake fluid. Been keeping my ol gummies alive for years with just a
> very thin coating of the stuff. Desert dryness and UV does a number on
> them here.
>
> Craig Montgomery in Tucson
>
>
> From: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
>
> > Ahoy !
> > OK, I admit, a very uptight question.
> > As many modern dishwashing soaps and laundry detergents are
> > formulated to
> disintergrate organic matter, and many oils and greases are formulated
> to resist disintegration, what are some good lubricants to assist with
> safely installing gum hoods onto brake levers?
> > I was going to use basic Castille bath soap.
> > In a lather,
> > Richard Cielec
> > Chicago, Illinois
>
> _______________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:31:07 EDT From: CYDYN@aol.com To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Re Installing Campy hoods. Message-ID: <1df.26d7f31b.2e400c9b@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 9

For years, I've found Lemon pledge to be a great asset for intalling gum

hoods. Spraying the inside of the hood and the outside surface of the brake lever makes installation quick and easy. Warming up the hood in warm water helps make it more pliable also. I've installed hundreds of pairs with this method through the years and never had one tear.

Paul Brown Cycle Dynamics Santa Rosa, CA

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 22:38:01 +0100 From: "brucerobbins" <brucerobbins@supanet.com> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Was DeRosa!/C.Andrews and now childish behaviour Message-ID: <000f01c478d8$fce0da80$cbb528d5@Robbocomp> References: <CATFOODv9aSaBbYqyd000004a26@catfood.nt.phred.org> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 10


> From: Harris <bianchipan@yahoo.com> What makes any one individual's choice more or less sane than the next guy/girl?I myself do not care for a Herse,but I admire them and all other bikes built with passion.But that is just me.I was taught as a child,"If you have nothing nice to say,then I suggest you say nothing at all".Good advice I think,and it should apply here.

Harris,

That's good advice for a child but we're all grown-ups on this list. Much of life revolves around opinions whether it be politics, the arts, or whatever. As I said earlier, I don't like Italian bikes (I'll make an exception for 1950s Italian frames though) because they all look the same. You might not like Hobbs or Flying Scots machines in which case I won't be offended if you say so. It's just an opinion, no better or worse than anyone else's and you either take it or leave it.

Bruce Dundee Scotland

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Date: 2 Aug 2004 15:33:54 -0700 From: "Michael Butler" <allondon@rock.com> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR] Claud Butlers Methods of Frame Construction Message-ID: <F369700C_56F8_4ADE_9D39_A7DBD15260B2@webmail.loadmail.load.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 11

During this debate on Claud Butler welded and bi-laminated frame constr= uction there has been some claims made on behalf of the added strenght = due to the bi-laminated method of construction=2E=20

To quote Clauds own words in numerous publications and adverts:=20

"CB=2E Bi-laminated construction is the greatest advance in frame buil= ding since the evolution of the safety bicycle=2E It is 25% stronger th= an the ordinry brazed joint, as proved by the official N=2EP=2EL=2Etens= ile test=2E Enables me to build your frame to any desired angles (if pr= acticable) without lug pulling=2E Proved sound by practicable demonstra= tions on the roads and tracks of the world=2E THIS IS THE TYPE OF FRAME= CONSTRUCTION I RECOMMEND=2E"=20

If this is the case why wasn't it employed on his tandem frames? I have= seen hundreds of Claud Butler tandems both lugless (welded) and lugged= used on the track for road time trials and for touring=2E But never a = bi-laminated tandem=2E If it was so strong surely the bi-laminated meth= od of construction would make it ideal for tandem useage with the extra= strains and loads placed on these frames especially when racing=2E=20

My father witnessed Reg Harris and I think he said Bannister rip the bo= ttom brackets out of a Claud Butler tandem when they were racing at Her= ne Hill=2E=20

Have I missed a Claud Butler bi-laminated tandem? Is there such a thing= in his catalogues? I have owned a Bill Philbrook made bi-laminated tan= dem and we all know that Bill worked for Claud's=2E=20

Is there a missing link?=20

=20

Mick Butler Huntingdon Great Britain=20

__________________________________________________ You Rock! Your E-mail should, too=2E Visit Rock=2Ecom!

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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 19:48:24 -0400 From: Paul Williams <castell5@sympatico.ca> To: classic rendezvous <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Hercules "Herailleur" info sought! Message-ID: <410ED2C8.3040902@sympatico.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12

Folks,

Has anyone any information on the Hercules "herailleur" gearing which appeared around about 1948? There seems to be no information to be found. Has anyone used one and, if so, can he or she give me an impression please?

Thanks,

Paul Williams, Ottawa, ON, Canada

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 20:00:33 -0400 From: "Aldo Ross" <aldoross4@siscom.net> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Pic of the Day 3rd August - Demi-Fond 1923 Message-ID: <00fa01c478ec$e8db07e0$a11bfbd1@Newhouse> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 13

Pic of the Day 3rd August=20 Demi-Fond 1923

Image from the 1923 French professional motor-paced championship, held = at the Parc des Princes in Paris. Five-time French champion Georges = S=E9r=E8s leads Robert Grassin and Giorgio Colombatto (who was an = Italian, so why is he racing the French Nationals?).=20

(I don't know the correct terms, so I'm calling the man on front of the = motor the "pilot" and the man on back the "brakeman".)=20

The pilot of the second motor isn't wearing a helmet, and only the = brakemen wear the heavy leather jacket.=20

What is the tank between the brakemen's hands?=20


>From "Le Miroir des Sports" No.156, 28th June 1923.

I've left the image large so that the detail would be clearer.

http://www.birfield.com/nuke/modules/gallery/album17/demi_fond_1923

Aldo Ross http://aldo-ross.agreatserver.com/ Blue Ball, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:42:57 -0700 From: "cmontgomery" <cmontgomery15@cox.net> To: "Joe Bender-Zanoni" <joebz@optonline.net>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods? Message-ID: <003401c478f2$d25ff7e0$d18fe744@D687QV01> References: <20040802012004.34201.qmail@web52003.mail.yahoo.com> <003f01c47859$2ee2e260$d18fe744@D687QV01> <002301c4780d$b6142ce0$6400a8c0@jfbender> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 14

My brother-in-law, who gave me the idea, restores vintage autos. He's used top quality brake fluid for years to soften hardened rubber parts. Of course the stuff is designed to keep the rubber caps on brake cylinders from hardening and cracking. If the rubber is pretty well gone you have to drop it into a jar of fluid for a few hours. Unfortunately the fluid will ooze and stain gloves for quite a while, so I really don't recommend it for trying to bring dead hoods back to life. But if the hoods are pretty good but beginning to dry and crack, try applying thin coats til they soften up. One thing brake fluid won't do is restore the strength to the rubber. If it's cracking it'll still rip if you're not careful.

Craig Montgomery who does not guarantee results in Tucson or anyplace else


> Now this really makes sense. Brake fluid has to be compatible with at least
> synthetic rubber seals. Anyone know more? And also what type brake
> fluid?
>
> Joe Bender-Zanoni
> Great Notch, NJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cmontgomery" <cmontgomery15@cox.net>
> To: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>; <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 2:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods?
>
>
> > Brake fluid. Been keeping my ol gummies alive for years with just a
> > very thin coating of the stuff. Desert dryness and UV does a number
> > on them
> here.
> >
> > Craig Montgomery in Tucson
> >
> >
> > From: "r cielec" <teaat4p@yahoo.com>
> >
> > > Ahoy !
> > > OK, I admit, a very uptight question.
> > > As many modern dishwashing soaps and laundry detergents are
> > > formulated
> to
> > disintergrate organic matter, and many oils and greases are
> > formulated to
> > resist disintegration, what are some good lubricants to assist with safely
> > installing gum hoods onto brake levers?
> > > I was going to use basic Castille bath soap.
> > > In a lather,
> > > Richard Cielec
> > > Chicago, Illinois
> >
> > _______________________________________________
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 10:29:26 +1000 From: Professore di Pimpissimo <bici_pimp@mac.com> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR] So ... My Aussie Speedwell is old .... perhaps older than some of you ;-) Message-ID: <2D3253CA-E4E4-11D8-9F61-000393B3BF4C@mac.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v618) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 15

Hey all,

From the opinion of those who know a fair bit on early Australian Speedwells my recent find was built somewhere between 1928 & 1932. Consensus is that it dates from before the Dunc Gray 1932 LA Olympic bike on display at the Dunc Gray Olympic 2000 Velodrome. Fishtail lugwork, fork crown & fork dropouts suggest thus & the serial # is consistent with the same. To fully confirm the era of the frame & fork I plan to remove the fork & see if there is a corresponding serial # stamped on the steerer tube. The headset has me a little ... uh .... lets just say its unlike any I have tooled on or can find reference to in Sutherlands or Google, maybe its more akin to the current vogue of internal headsets. Was our man Rebour still on the absinthe at the time

these were produced? Any pics or diagrams of similar or in practice are the early internal Bianchi headset much the same?

The parts date mostly from the about the 50's forward. Still not sure whether to refurbish with period correct bits or keep as is or other, but it needs a little lovin'. In particular i wish to open up the bottom bracket & headset for a good clean, grease & re-pack. None of the parts indicate damage or undue wear but I'd rather get a better look and prep them before I take it out for a whirl. I don't want to do

any damage or get stuck with a bunch of parts being unable to fit it all back together & I'd rather know its beyond me before i start, so I'm asking for advice that anyone may have with ......

- Steel Magistroni cranks - cotter pins (bolted).

http://homepage.mac.com/dupe/.Pictures/old%20speedwell/bblug.jpg

- Brampton "oiler" bottom brackets. ??

http://homepage.mac.com/dupe/.Pictures/old%20speedwell/ magistronistamp.jpg

- Internal headsets - stripping & reassembly - still have no idea of the make (any clues?).

http://homepage.mac.com/dupe/.Pictures/old%20speedwell/headtubeside.jpg

Any tips or past experience with these, (whattayado with no headset locknut), would be appreciated. Also, the year of manuf. for the cranks, bb & headset (make?) would be cool to know as well.

The good news is it is a Speedwell, the shiny portion of chrome (or is it nickel?) left behind were the "Speedwell" was on the downtube is likely to have been painted. Any clairvoyants amongst you care to guess

as to the colour of the Speedwell logo. Some mystery remains as to whether the chrome is original or a later replate. What is the done thing with older plating - polish or leave as is ??

Pics for the keen eyed amongst you are on the page below.......

http://homepage.mac.com/dupe/PhotoAlbum11.html

Any help or advice is appreciated. Any willing to have a crack at suggesting correct era parts are welcome too.

thanks

ciao, Ben Kamenjas Sydney, Australia

oh ... there are a few interesting bits on Aussie ebay (no relation blah blah)

S/Record 26.8 seat post

http://ebay.com/<blah> ViewItem&category=42319&item=3690949426

Colnago Shoes - NOSNIB size 45.5

http://ebay.com/<blah> ViewItem&category=42319&item=3692062179

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 18:05:25 -0700 From: Duane Kennard <d.kennard@adelphia.net> To: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]'70s ARGOS questions... Message-ID: <33C550C4-E4E9-11D8-82E4-000A95984962@adelphia.net> In-Reply-To: <2D3253CA-E4E4-11D8-9F61-000393B3BF4C@mac.com> References: <2D3253CA-E4E4-11D8-9F61-000393B3BF4C@mac.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v618) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 16

Hi boys & girls,

Does anyone out there know about '70s ARGOS frames? What I'm wondering, is if they were all customs, or if they built production frames as well. I recently snagged an ARGOS from mid-late '70s, and I'm wondering 'cause it's got what seems an uncommonly short top tube (51ctc, w/53ctc seat) for the mid '70s period... I'm thinking maybe it was a custom, and ordered that way.... Perfect for me, as I like a short top tube. Anyone on the CR list have an ARGOS that they like or dislike? Thanks as always,

Duane Kennard Los Angeles, USA

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2004 01:31:01 +0000 From: "sam Lingo" <samclingo@hotmail.com> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]Lubricant for Gum Hoods? Message-ID: <BAY1-F420iDCVLLmNJc00049bf6@hotmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 17

Dot 5 will not eat paint

sam lingo

pleasanton tx


>From: Joe Bender-Zanoni <joebz@optonline.net>
>

And also what type brake fluid?
>
>

------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------ Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. ------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 19:00:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]TTT Stem Size Message-ID: <20040803020046.89020.qmail@web81008.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <20040802141446.46644.qmail@web81009.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 18

Thanks for all the off-list responses. Others also report problems with some, but not all these stems. The most likely explanation offered was that they were available both for alloy bars (presumably 26.0) and in 25.4 for steel bars. This sounds plausible, since these stems were probably most often used on the track, and steel track bars were still common in the 60's. So it would seem I should use this stem with 25.4 bars like British GB or JIS dimension Japanese bars of which Nitto still makes some very fine ones.

Regards,

Jerry Moos Houston, TX

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End of Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 20, Issue 7 ************************************************