Re: [CR]brake cable problem

(Example: Framebuilders:Jack Taylor)

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 13:35:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Byron Morton" <>
Subject: Re: [CR]brake cable problem
In-Reply-To: <>

Charles, What you need is one of the alum cable stops that clamp to the stem quil - just above the headset locknut. They work great and are available in a 22.2 dia. silver or black. They are available through Quality (and probably other wholesalers) which means pretty much any shop can get you one. Good luck with your project.
-Byron Morton
Nashville, TN

--- wrote:

> I recently acquired a truly lovely tandem
> from a list member. A Jack Taylor from
> the early 80s with the old graphics, box-
> lining...white. Really pretty.
> I'm just dying to get it together, and ride it,
> and it's getting there. But I ran into a snag
> and I'm hoping someone here will have a better
> idea than I do.
> The stem that came with it is drilled for a brake
> cable, but that stem is too long and too low for
> my use.. I'm putting a Nitto Technomic deluxe on it
> instead (no yowls from the peanut gallery: my
> cervical joint health is more important than looking
> good on the slopes, 'kay?)
> The problem is, the steerer tube is, as it should
> be,
> oversized, so a standard head-set fit cable stop
> will not work. I'd need an oversized one, or I'd
> have to file one out.. not a big deal on an aluminum
> one, and I may do that, assuming I can actually FIND
> an aluminum stop that will work... the part that
> fits over the steerer would have to be quite thin,
> because,
> most unfortunately, the steerer tube has been cut
> rather
> short.. (you can see the comedy of errors here)
> I could just have the stem drilled, and I may yet,
> although
> the idea doesn't exactly thrill me. It's a hassle,
> and more
> delay, besides (find machine shop to do work, take
> to shop,
> explain problem, explain they have to drill it
> twice, once
> for the cable, and again for the casing, to make a
> stop)..I'd do
> it myself, but I really don't have the proper tools
> for the job,
> like a good drill-press.
> I had one suggestion, a good one, from Chuck
> Schmidt, to have
> a stop welded or brazed onto the lock washer, which
> isn't a bad
> idea, but again, finding the shop to do it might be
> a challenge, it's
> a tricky job I suspect. I may go that route in the
> end.
> For now, what I have is an aluminum stop I found at
> an LBS (these stops
> are not easy to find anymore, now that cantis appear
> obsolete at
> most bike shops) I filed
> it out to fit, but it's too thick, there aren't
> enough threads for the
> lock nut with the stop in place. So, at this point,
> I'm thinking of just
> duct-taping it to the top of the lock-nut, and using
> it that way until
> I can figure out a better solution. Ugly, but it
> should work. I
> will probably end up trying to grind the clamp area
> of the stop
> down to a thinness that will make it work clamped
> into the
> head-set assembly, but I'm afraid if I do that it'll
> be too weak
> for the job, and break. I need to find someone
> around here
> with a nice grinding wheel I guess.
> Any other better ideas would be much appreciated,
> and if you just
> happened to have in your possession a nice aluminum
> headset cable
> stop that is quite thin where it clamps to the
> headset, I'd be happy
> to buy it from you..<g>
> Thanks for any insights you can provide.
> Charles Andrews
> SoCal
> _______________________________________________
> Classicrendezvous mailing list

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