You just better pull the file in towards the hole as you make your way around.
george argiris San diego, ca
-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of David Feldman Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 10:50 AM To: Doug Van Cleve; classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]Damage at Bike Shops
Paint jobs, like the frames under them, differ greatly
in quality. A responsible mechanic will warn
customers about the likelihood of paint damage when
some necessary mechanical operations are performed.
David Feldman
Vancouver,WA
> Curt,
>
> I read what I thought was a pretty good article
> about properly
> prepping a new frame in Road Bike Action (I think).
> They recommended
> running a fine tooth file around the edges of the
> headtube to break
> the paint before facing to prevent chipping.
> Different tool same
> result I guess :^)
>
> Doug Van Cleve
> Chandler, AZ
>
>
> On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 10:16:30 -0500, goodrichbikes
> <goodrichbikes@netzero.net> wrote:
> > Todd Kuzma posted-
> > If the paint job ain't great, you can get that
> same chip when you face the
> > > head tube. In this case, I'd be more inclined
> to blame the painter for
> > that
> > > chip than the shop. Of course, the shop should
> have faced the head tube
> > for
> > > proper fit of the headset.
> >
> > I always remove the paint with a razor. First run
> the blade along the
> > outside edge thereby creating a paint donut on
> the head tube face that's
> > separate from the rest of the paint job. Then use
> the razor to remove the
> > paint donut. Then it's obvious if the head tube
> has been faced. If it has,
> > then no need to do it again.
> >
> > Curt Goodrich
> > Minneapolis, MN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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