[CR]Re: riv-screws and Galli

(Example: Framebuilders:Richard Moon)

Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 08:35:24 -0800
From: "alan" <worthy2@earthlink.net>
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
References: <MONKEYFOODLEdyt3cew000008ef@monkeyfood.nt.phred.org>
In-Reply-To:
Subject: [CR]Re: riv-screws and Galli


>
>That may be true of Raleighs from the late '70s onward, but before that they
>used brass rivets that were hollow. Those are real buggers to deal with on
>repaints. Glue is good. You've got to be careful of rivets or other
>fasteners protruding into the headtube as there is not much clearance before
>you hit the steerer.
>
>Steve Barner, Bolton, Vermont
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>>Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 19:25:06 -0500
>>From: Louis Schulman <louiss@gate.net>
>>To: EdVintage63@aol.com
>>Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>>Subject: Re: [CR]Re: Raleigh headbadge
>>
>>Raleigh used "self-tapping rivets". They are really not rivets at all,
>>but screws with a helical thread and no slot, that creates threads when
>>tapped in.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Since I used the phrase "anal-retentive", I've got to back up my claim by picking a few nits: those BRASS "self-tapping" unslotted riv-screws are not intended to cut threads when they are pressed, or more likely hammered, into a chrome-manganese STEEL head tube...ain't gonna happen. They also don't have "threading", but I'll give that detail a rest...what they do have in terms of raised helical ridges are designed to compress or "mash down" and improve the press-fit. I agree that a drop of glue on the shank is a good idea, IF you don't want to remove the badge, voluntarily or otherwise. Otherwise, I like real threads cut with the correct tap (they aren't hard to find, try smallparts.com, or use-enco.com) and I swear by Loctite, in all it's flavor-colors (purple is the lowest-strength). Clearance inside the tube has to be considered and be prepared to cut down the miniature screws to make that fit just right, but you're all that anal-retentive, too...right? Re: Galli other than brakes, I have a used Galli crankset (a standard Campy copy with 170 arms and 42/52 chainrings, 144BCD) that was black anodized, but now faded to gray. I'd be happy to part with it, contact me off-list if you're interested. Galli made at least those, and headsets and hubs (though the front hub I have looks suspisciously "Miche" to me, and I hate Miche, mostly), Campy-copy derailleurs (also rough looking) and some rough cast QR axle levers. Some of this MUST have been sub-contracted from others and just branded by Galli. You-all will know better than me. Alan Goldsworthy San Francisco, CA