[CR]Campy droput adjusters and 50's stuff


Example: Production Builders:Cinelli

Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 08:57:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
In-Reply-To: <00b601c4d887$94b94190$6501a8c0@testuser1>
Subject: [CR]Campy droput adjusters and 50's stuff

Anyone know when Campy switched to the new type DO adjusters with the plastic tabs? Would the new type (which is much cheaper) be correct on a 1984 Trek 660?

On another subject, and another project, I've gotten the HS back together on the 1950 Claud Butler (Allrounder or Avant Coureur, we still aren't sure which) after pulling the fork to find the serial #. Only lost two 5/32 ball bearings in the process. The HS is marked Brampton inside the top cup. As I mentione earlier, the pressed cups aren't really pressed, but slide easily into the HT. Also, the bottom fixed cup has wrench flats, which you don't see on modern HS's. Was it standard in the 50's for HS cups to slide into the HT rather than the pressed fit used today? Also, the nearest metric sizes for the wrench flats seem to be 42 mm for the cups and 32 mm for the locknout. Does anyone sell HS wrenches in these sizes?

To compensate for the very long CB top tube, I'm replacing the 95 mm GB stem (like appeared on 70's Raleigh Grand Prix, exposed quill binder head) with a much shorter HInduminium stem, with a squarish cross section. I think these were also made by GB, although it doesn't seem to be marked GB. Is the Hinduminium stem correct for 1950, or at least no more incorrect than the more generic GB?

Finally what was the range of chainrings available for the old circa 1950 cottered steel cranks? The CB has a French-made Duprax. Like most of the three arm cottered cranks, it has a fairly small circle, probably no more than 100 mm, and the arms bolt to three curved pieces which carry the chainrings In this case, the curved carriers are part of the large chainring. The small ring bolts to the back of the large one, and the mounting holes in the large ring are positioned such that you can't get more than a couple of teeth difference between rings. This crank has 50-49 or maybe 51-49, which isn't particularly useful if you encounter any hills at all.

This is my first real venture into early 50's good quality cottered cranks. Were the bolt circles fairly standard so that you could use chainrings of a different brand than the arms? Was it possible to get a 38T small ring? Did some rings allow a wider spread between large and small ring? How large a spread would the old suicide lever FD's handle?

Regards,

Jerry Moos
Houston, TX