Great ideas and one more thing. Either remove or completely tighten the rear drop out screws. I have had two frames arrive that were packed extremely well and neither time was there any external evidence of damage to the carton. After removing the frames; both had bent or broken adjuster screws; even though there was way more than adequate packaging.
Also go here and click on the Packing Your Frame tab for a nice visual presentation.
Nick Zatezalo Atlanta,Ga
> [Original Message]
> From: Retrofan531 <Retrofan531@allegiance.tv>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Date: 12/17/2004 3:01:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [CR] Packing and Shipping Frame - Looking for Guidance
>
> I am very methodical and thorough with my packing. I first put a plastic
> dropout protector in the rear drop out and the front fork. I then wrap
each
> tube of the frame, including the fork legs, in closed-cell pipe insulation
> and fasten them with zipties.
>
> I then wrap bubble wrap or pipe insulation around the seat tube and
headtube
> opening, as well as around the bottom of the bottom bracket shell and
front
> and rear dropouts.
>
> I usually take the fork off and wrap it in some additional bubble wrap or
> packing to keep it from damaging either the fork or frame during transit,
> but sometimes with a larger box leave it installed if there is room.
>
> I then put flat Styrofoam at the bottom and ends of the box and put
Wal-Mart
> bags, newspaper, etc around the frame in the bike box. Before I close the
> box, I place a run of flat Styrofoam on top of the frame and then close
the
> box and seal it well with strong clear packing tape.
>
> This may seem like overkill, but I have yet to have a frame damaged and
have
> received many comments on "best packing job ever". To me, if the frame is
> worth buying or selling, it is worth protecting. I have a hard time
getting
> below the oversize designation by UPS, so might as well use some of the
> allowed "dimensional weight" with packing material ;-)
>
> Frank Phillips
> McAlester, OK