Here is what I was able to find out about J-Disc and its wheels from a former employee...
Thanks go to Cameron Bittle & Alan Cline!
Regards, Steve Neago
> Steve -
> Wow, I am amazed that there are still wheels floating around that I made 10
> years ago, or so.
> To answer your questions:
> Components for stock wheels. If it is other than stock I have no clue and
> your guess would be better than mine.
> if cassette then ultegra or Dura ace 8 speed at the time
> if spin on freewheel then bullseye
> double butted DT's 14-15 in a 3 cross pattern
> nips were DT alloy
> if tubular, Sun Mistral
> if clincher, Mavic Open 4, Matrix Iso C, or possibly Mistral
> clincher (unlikely as there were only a few of these)
> contact cement is used to bond the mylar to the rim. The mylar is
> a sandwich of color and plastic that is heat sensative and shrinks when
> exposed to strong heat (150 degrees) so a heat gun is what we use to shrink
> it down, be careful as it does melt if it gets too hot.
> The skin was first mounted on a plywood ring that allowed for the small
> ring in the middle around the hub (1/64th plywood from a hobby shop works
> best) and the contact cement along with a reinforcing netting to be placed
> on the skin. Contact cement applied to the skin near the edge where the
> rim would make contact with the skin
> The rim was cleaned and then masked so that the area on the rim for the
> break pad could be easily removed. Contact cement was applied to the rim
> only. NO glue on anything other than rim surface and the horseshoe near
> the valve.
> Apply the skin to the wheel, press with a thumb wrapped in a rag around the
> rim to make good contact between the two surfaces then cut away the plywood
> ring. Press to make full contact between all rim surface and the
> mylar. Apply other side making sure to place horseshoe at the valve before
> putting on second side. Trim away the waste for the braking surface.
> Apply heat and it should shrink.
> I've probably forgotten something but those are the main steps.
> After five years I got tired of building wheels for a meager living and
> went to greener pastures. J-disc survived for another year but my partner
> had lost interest also and it ended.
> Dating of your wheel; this is how I think it went:
> should be a serial number engraved next to the valve. the first two
> numbers are the year and the next three or four is for the number of wheels
> that year. so 91203 would be 1991 and number wise we would make about 250
> a month on average.
> We only made 2 front disc wheels both for personal friends who knew how
> dangerous it was to ride with a full disc front wheel. It messes heavily
> with the ability to control the bike especially when using aero bars. I
> recommend just getting a deep section rim on a front wheel. Much safer and
> not that much slower.
> Good luck,
> At 04:35 PM 12/17/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >Hi Cameron,
> >Alan Cline suggested that I contact you regarding the J-Disc rear wheel that
> >I recently acquired. It is my understanding that you use to build wheels for
> >I am trying to construct a matching 32h front wheel to match the J-Disc rear
> >wheel that I own. However, the rear wheel is covered with Mylar for
> >aerodynamics which makes it difficult at best for me to find out what
> >components were used. I am trying to find out the following:
> >1). What OEM parts make/models were used to build the wheel (rim, hub,
> >spokes, nipples)
> > ? HiE hubs
> > ? titanium spokes
> > ? Araya or Matrix Aero gray tubie rims?
> >2.) What spoke cross pattern was used to construct the wheel (2-cross or
> >3.) What was the technique used to apply the Mylar heat-shrink covering? I
> >have a sign cutter and 32" square Mylar where I would like to cover the
> >wheel I am going to build. What solvent was used to attach the Mylar to the
> >metal spokes?
> >4.) How can I date when the wheel was built and whatever happened to J-Disc
> >Regards, Steve Neago
> >(513) 248-8830
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Alan Cline" <email@example.com>
> >To: <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> >Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 1:34 PM
> >Subject: J-Disc info
> > > Steve-
> > >
> > > I don't know much about those wheels, but our wheelbuilder was a builder
> > > J-disc and I bet he could help you out.
> > >
> > > His name is Cameron and can be reached at: email@example.com or
> > > (541)741-0313
> > >
> > > I'm sure he wouldn't mind answering questions if he is able.
> > >
> > > Alan Cline
> > > Co-Motion Cycles
> > > 4765 Pacific Ave.
> > > Eugene, OR 97402
> > >
> > > mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org
> > >
> > > Handcrafted bicycles since 1988
> > > http://www.co-motion.com
> > >
> > > Toll free: (866) 282-6336
> > > Fax (541) 342-2210