Re: [CR]Re: Sturmey Archer...

(Example: Framebuilders:Cecil Behringer)

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 10:58:12 +0000
Subject: Re: [CR]Re: Sturmey Archer...
From: "Hilary Stone" <hilary.stone@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <ABikie@aol.com>, <sachs@erols.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
In-Reply-To: <d6.1c37a491.2ef65fe8@aol.com>


Excess drag or difficult freewheeling in any hub gear with compound pinions (with Sturmeys - FW, AM, KS, KSW, TC) is due to the pinions not being timed. The front faces of the planet pinions have a small line on them between the two sets of teeth. The pinions must be fitted such that the line on each pinion points outwards perfectly radially all at the same time - its a lot easier to see what I mean in a pic - see http://www.toehead.demon.co.uk/fw.htm for the FW diagram, the principle is the same for all the gears with compound pinions. The acid test is to fit the pinions as perfectly as you can and then slide the gear ring on. Rotate the gear ring - this should feel absolutely smooth without any spots which feel in the least bit tight. Mistimed pinions can result in stripped sun gears and the gears will not freewheel correctly... There are other essentials to observe when reassembling Sturmey gears too and if you are interested in these gears a copy of the 1956 Sturmey catalogue is essential; it and instructions for other Sturmey and BSA gears are available in PDF format at http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/samaintind.htm

Hilary Stone, Bristol, England


> From: ABikie@aol.com
> Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 23:39:04 EST
> To: sachs@erols.com, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Re: Sturmey Archer...
>
> In a message dated 12/18/2004 10:12:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> sachs@erols.com writes:
> Q: What's more frustrating than losing one of the darned #K64 pawl
> springs from a Sturmey Archer hub?
> A: Finding half of one... :-(
>
> Anyone have a stash? (In fact, what I was working on was a common FW,
> 4-speed, wide range unit from a '49 Lenton. I had a bit of trouble -
> still do - with some excess drag in the freewheeling mechanism, so I
> opened a later ('64) spare, for comparison. That's the one with a broken
> K64, FWIW. Not sure if it is good news or bad that almost all the parts
> are identical, but a couple of things had been simplified...)
>
> Q: How many different types of cog-mounts or "drivers" have there been?
>
> A: Well, most of us have seen the the quasi-universal variety with three
> notches in the body and three matching protrusions in the cogs. Easy
> change-over with just a spring holding things in place. Before that
> there was a unit with something like 12 splines and a lock ring. What I
> found today, I think, on the older FW, was a pure threaded-on cog.
> Maybe that's the one that allowed building up with a 2- or 3-speed cog
> assembly for a derailleur assist. I haven't messed with one of those
> for decades, and don't regret it at all.
>
> Q: If taking apart FW is insanity (as we have discussed), where does
> that put breaking down SA hubs, and only doing it every few years, so
> you forget how?
>
> A: On a rationality scale from 1 - 10, about a -5.
>
> Your mileage may vary
>
> harvey sachs
> I have those springs somewhere inthe haystacks and the good news is we are
> now lighted by the grid, not as handheld.
> I had the recent chalenge of having to assemble a basket case Shimano 60's 3
> banger hub and did a mini consult w9th my ol Schwinn book and some original
> Sutherlands books.
>
> You are welcome to the books any time
>
> While i have your attention, I am seeking for an old friend a Carlton-labeled
> bike or a Raleigh/Carlton Competition, not the GS. 21.5-23.5 in good to new
> condition, I would like to ship it to Florida before year's end.

> Larry Black

>

> larry