Perfect and I love the part about the shop should have done this or should at least give it a try. Steven Willis 1778 East Second Street Scotch Plains NJ 07076 908-322-9022 http://www.thebikestand.com
> Hi Todd,
> I spent 5 years working at Wheelsmith here in Palo
> Alto and have done this a million times. (Before
> anyone jumps down my throat, I do not claim to be "Mr.
> Expert.") But here is how to do it:
> 1. Remove the tire and tube.
> 2. Place the wheel in a truing stand or in bicycle
> fork with bicycle turned up-side down.
> 3. Find a very FLAT wrench (cone wrench is best.)
> 4. Place the cone wrench (length-wise) over the outer
> side of one side of the rim seam.
> 5. Look down at the seam. If the cone wrench does
> not "teeter" over the seam, or you cannot see an
> indentation at one half of the seam, then this side of
> the rim is most likely aligned.
> 6. Place the cone wrench length-wise on the opposite
> outer rim side. Look down at the seam. If the cone
> wrench "teeters" back and forth, this means that one
> side is flaring out too much and needs to be pushed
> back into place. There is a tool to do this (rim
> pliers). The rim pliers are somewhat of a goofy tool
> and if not used properly will leave marks on new rims.
> But the easiest way is to take the wheel out of the
> truing stand and lay it sideways on a wooden bench and
> use the hard side of a mallet to bang the flared side
> of the seam back into place.
> 7. If you place the cone wrench over the seam as in
> step #6, and it does not teeter BUT you can see that
> one side of the seem is pressed inward, do the
> a.) Hold a cone wrench flat against the outside of the
> b.) Look down at the area between the cone wrench and
> the outside of rim/seam area. Observe which side of
> the seam is bent "inward."
> c.) While holding the cone wrench firmly in place
> lengthwise against the outer side of the rim, take a
> small crescent wrench and tighten it over the outer
> side of the cone wrench and the inner wall of the rim
> ON THE SIDE OF THE SEAM WHICH IS PUSHED INWARD.
> d.) Using the crescent wrench and cone wrench,
> carefully pry the pushed in side out until it is
> aligned with its neighboring side.
> e.) Run your fingers over the seemed area and repeat
> all steps above as necessary until there is no pulsing
> of the rim.
> f.) As a final measure, use a vernier caliper to take
> measurements of outer-to-outer section rim section
> distances in random spots around the wheel. Then take
> a few measurements around the seemed area and see if
> you have indeed corrected the problem.
> A few more things to keep in mind:
> -The VERY LAST RESORT TO CORRECTING THUMPING IS TO
> SAND THE RIM. And this is ESPECIALLY true if these
> ARE NEW RIMS AS YOU MAY VOID THE WARRANTY. I have
> never, ever had to sand a NEW rim to correct brake
> -THE SHOP THAT SOLD YOU THESE RIMS SHOULD HAVE TAKEN
> CARE OF THIS PROBLEM BEFORE YOU EVEN WALKED OUT THE
> DOOR. Most "new" wheels out of a box are not fully
> tensioned, trued, or completely dished. And the rim
> seem has not been checked. THIS IS THEIR
> RESPONSIBILITY as a professional bicycle dealer to
> check these things for you.
> Hope this helps,
> Ted Baer
> Palo Alto, CA
> --- email@example.com wrote:
> > Experiencing an annoying brake thump on a new set of
> > wheels.Anyone have a tried and true rememdy for
> > fixing an uneven seam on a rim,in this case an
> > Ma2?Can't find anything in the archives.
> > Thanks,
> > Todd Kielman
> > Chicago