I've only built 50 or 60 wheels. John's advice is great. One thing I can add is: use a tensiometer. They're fairly inexpensive. Both Wheelsmith and Park sell nice ones. What may feel tight at the nipple may be galling between the nipple and the ferrule, and may not indicate spoke tension at all. Conversely, an oiled nipple/ferrule might feel loose, but the spoke may have plenty of tension. I use "Greythumb" compound on spoke threads and a little bit of "dry" oil at the ferrule when nipples start galling during the tensioning process, or on older wheels that resist adjustment.
Always tighten an extra 1/4 turn and back off that 1/4 turn to avoid spoke twist.
Leave your nipple flats parallel to the rim surface. Nothing needs an 1/8th turn.
I'm repeating stuff that's already in Jobst Brandt's excellent book, _The Bicycle Wheel_. Damon Rinard's spocalc.xls (google it) is also very useful.
Morgan
Oakland, CA