RE: [CR]Re: Wheel Building

(Example: Events)

content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Subject: RE: [CR]Re: Wheel Building
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 11:00:36 +1100
Thread-Topic: [CR]Re: Wheel Building
Thread-Index: AcUUd3vBqx1PwxEYSPai6+IlclUGOQACcdBQ
From: <Suzy.Jackson@csiro.au>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>


Morgan wrote:
> I use "Greythumb" compound on spoke threads and a little bit of
> "dry" oil at the ferrule when nipples start galling during the
> tensioning process, or on older wheels that resist adjustment.

What is this 'Greythumb" compound? I've always used boiled linseed oil to lubricate spoke threads. It's oily when you're assembling the wheel, so assists in getting high, even tension, and then becomes slightly tacky, keeping nipples from coming loose. I also understand it's been de-rigeur for wheelbuilding pretty much forever, so unlike modern stuff like Wheelsmith spokeprep (repackaged loctite as I understand it) is more in tune with classic bikes.

I've built all my own wheels since the age of 14, when I pranged my shiny new Peugeot racing bike and buckled the rear wheel. I didn't have the money to buy a new wheel, or to have the bike shop build a wheel for me. The nice guy at the LBS sold me an old Nisi rim that was hanging up in the shop without a friend cheaply, and a fistful of spokes, and armed with a copy of De La Rosa and Kolin's "understanding, maintaining, and riding the 10 speed bicycle", I laced it up, 36 spoke four cross, 'cos that's how they did it in the book.

Of course all my wheels now are either 32 spoke three cross, or else 40 spoke three cross on my vintage bikes.

On a related point, I'm rebuilding the wheels on my Speedwell and Airlite. Both use Airlite hubs, with Conloy rims on the Speedwell and Kuntz wooden rime on the Airlite. It being basically impossible to buy chrome plated spokes, I've substituted 15/16 ga DT stainless spokes. Does anyone have experience with tying and soldering with stainless spokes? I understand that it's not necessary to do so (these will be the only wheels I own that are tied and soldered), but I want to keep to the original look of the bikes as closely as possible. The wheels were originally tied and soldered by someone in the '40s who thought that was a good thing, and so I will tie and solder now. I was thinking of using fine stainless wire and 56% silver solder (the stuff I use when framebuilding) and heating with my oxy-LPG torch... Is this appropriate?

Regards,

Suzy