[CR]Re: Stainless Steel mudguards

(Example: Framebuilders:Alberto Masi)

From: "David Fryer" <maximalist@bigpond.com>
To: <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 11:39:49 +1000
Subject: [CR]Re: Stainless Steel mudguards

Re: Stainless Steel mudguards.

If you use stainless steel fasteners, they shake loose more readily than plated mild steel. S/S is "slippery", so you need to torque them a bit higher and use a spring washer where possible; a smear of Loctite also helps.

Tech Tip: How to make sexy S/S bolt heads without a lathe.

If you don't have access to a lathe, but have a pedestal drill (essential equipment for home restorers), try this easy technique:

Clamp the bolt shank or threaded section in the chuck. Turn the drill on

and use a file to form a convex dome and / or a reduced head thickness. (I have also used an angle grinder while the drill is turning to achieve the same result for bigger bolts, although you have to be careful not to get any carborundum dust in the pedestal slide). Finish off with wet-and-dry paper or fine emery cloth. This should result in a satin finish with no tool marks.

To achieve a high polish:

Once the required shape / reduced head thickness has been achieved, remove the bolt and put it in the chuck of an ordinary electric hand drill. Find a piece of soft rubber - at least 6mm (1/4") thick, preferably thicker - and fix it to the bench top (sticky tape is ok). Overlay the rubber with

some wet-and-dry paper - 600 to 900 grade - and "drill" the bolt head into it. In no time at all, you will have a beautiful finish on thebolt head. For a high gloss, carry on the same way with metal polish on the rubber (don't use rags, they get entangled).

The result is a professional looking racing bolt with a finish similar to quality chrome.

David Fryer, sunny Queensland, Australia.