Re: [CR]Phil Wood BB to Trade

(Example: Production Builders:LeJeune)

Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 19:13:14 -0400
From: "HM & SS Sachs" <sachs@erols.com>
To: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [CR]Phil Wood BB to Trade
References: <20050601123341.35259.qmail@web81003.mail.yahoo.com>
In-Reply-To: <20050601123341.35259.qmail@web81003.mail.yahoo.com>
cc: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>

I suspect you will find that $35 is reasonable, considering the retail price of the bearings (I have not checked this in a decade or more). They use a hydraulic press or its mechanical equivalent, with special jigging/tooling to put the force where it belongs. Without the tooling, it can be hard work. With it, it will be very quick. harvey sachs mcLean va

Jerome & Elizabeth Moos wrote:
> Phil Wood will change the bearings for $35. Anyone know what kind of
> tools they use?
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
>
> HM & SS Sachs <sachs@erols.com> wrote:
>
> Jerry Moos wrote:
>
> A few months ago, I picked up some Phil BB's on eBay. These
> included a couple of 111 mm symmetric (no offset) Campy taper
> ones. I've traded one to a list member, but I'd like to trade the
> other as well. Anyone have a 119mm +4 (right side 4mm longer than
> left) or 123mm +5 Phil Wood BB they would like to trade for 111
> symmetric? Phil does change axles, but it is cheaper to do a trade
> on the list.
>
> Also, is it practical to change bearings oneself in Phil BB's?
> What tools are required? Or is it better to send them back to Phil
> for bearing change?
> ++++++++++++++++++
> I'll just report on my experience and observations: On some Phil
> bb sets, it is possible, on some it is impossible/unfeasible, and
> on some others it is a Bad Idea.
>
> Bad Idea: What I believe to have been the earliest series used a
> hard-edged groove with a circlip to locate the be! aring with
> respect to the spindle. One circlip just inside each bearing. Can
> you say "stress riser?" Can you picture failure? Later ones used
> an aluminum sleeve that seems to have been glued to the spindle.
>
> Impossible: What may have been the second series were really
> elegant, but not serviceable. These had the spindle, bearings, and
> shell all as a factory-manufactured integral assembly that did not
> seem to be designed for bearing replacement.
>
> Feasible, but not recommended: I have certainly replaced bearings
> on the type with separate industrial bearings separated by a
> sleeve. Phil recommended some special tooling and a hydraulic
> press. Figuring that I wasn't worried about preserving the dead
> bearing, I have used brute force and ugly manners for disassembly.
> Assembly of the new parts requires just enough tooling to press on
> the correct parts of the bearings - the inner race when pushing
> onto the spindle, for example. Just think like a bearing so you
> think about what won! 't hurt, and you'll do fine. Or send your
> wornout Phil stuff to me for all the TLC I will give it. Just be
> sure to include the lock rings, so they don't get lonely.
>
> BTW, the bearings are 17 mm x 30 mm (metric), not exactly a
> hardware store item. But much less expensive than the right rear
> wheel bearing, if I recall correctly. That one took a particularly
> large ID to OD ratio, and was maybe $25 each years ago.
>
> harvey "bald bearing" sachs
> mcLean va.