If you are having a problem shifting your Nuovo Record rear derailleur into the low gear (large cog of the freewheel,) you may want to check the play in the derailleur mounting bolt hole on the NR rear derailleur.
Yes, I agree that Campagnolo does fine machining work. The chromed steel Campagnolo mounting bolt is solid as a rock. But the machined aluminum NR body IS NOT. You have probably owned a NR RD at some time wherein the bolt did not want to go into the hole (drilled through the derailleur.) People start filing down the outer edges of the mounting bolt only to compound the problem.
What happens over time is that the drilled hole for the mounting bolt develops play which causes shifting onto the low gear to hesitate. If you tried every possible adjustment (including checking proper chain length) and you still hear the cage "pinging" against the spokes either the derailleur hanger is bent inward or the NR RD is worn out.
You can try reaching down with both hands, pulling the derailleur forward (towards the crank) and then with the derailleur in the forward position, "rock" the derailleur in and out in various positions. If you can feel substantial rocking, this means that the hole (drilled through the NR RD for the mounting bolt) is not longer cylindrical. Modern day derailleurs including Campagnolo have addressed this problem.
As for classic chains, I am at a loss to help here. At the shops here in Palo Alto, we used (O-T) Shimano HG-70 or HG-90 chains to achieve smooth crisp shifting as they tended to have less lateral play than the Regina's.
Ted E. Baer Not an expert by any means, just speaking from experience. Palo Alto, CA
> Marcus Helman wrote:
>
> I have been glad to read this thread because I have
> been having a
> similar problem to Garth. In my situation the parts
> are a Regina 5 speed and a
> Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear derailleur. When the
> chain is on the
> big-big combination the edge of the rear derailleur
> clips the spokes. It is
> easy to adjust the derailleur so that it clears the
> spokes, but then I can't
> get it into the small chainring-big cog combo. I
> have set it so that I can
> use the the small chainring-big cog, and I just
> don't shift into the
> big-big combo. It seems that a spacer would solve
> the problem.
>
> Tom Dalton Replies:
> This is a classic issue with Regina FW's, Campy
> NR-type rear ders and Campy hubs. As I recall, the
> scant printed material included with the NR rear
> ders mostly pertained to the issue of clearance
> beween the unit and the spokes. The large cog of
> the Regina FWs is exactly in line with the shoulder
> of the inner body, whereas the cog sits just a bit
> further out on many other types of freewheels. This
> is EXACTLY the situation in which a freewheel spacer
> is applicable. Changes to the axle spacing can be
> used for chainline adjustment, but they have no
> effect on the relationship between the FW and the
> flange (and thus the spokes).
>
> There are a couple of other things that I've seen
> done to eliminate the interference between the
> pulley cage and spokes in this situation. 1) you
> can grind a small amount of material from the
> leading edge of the cage near the upper pulley bolt.
> However, this is not a nice thing to do to your
> collectible-type units. 2) Some folks say that
> lacing the wheel with the pulling spokes in the
> heads-out position means that under tension these
> spokes will be drawn inboard, and that the other
> spokes will also be drawn in where the pulling
> spokes cross over them. Sounds a little suspect to
> me, but this happens to be the way I lace my wheels
> anyway, unless previous use of the hub dictates
> otherwise.
>
> By the way, your difficulty getting into the big cog
> when in the small ring, but not while in the big
> ring is unusual. Properly adjusted drivetrians that
> go readily onto the big cog while in the small ring
> sometimes won't go into that cog while in the big
> ring, but this is opposite to your problem. This
> more common situation is not a problem, because the
> big/big is not a combination that should be used.
> However, this is not the problem you're having, just
> something to keep in mind.
>
> Marcus Helman wrote:
>
> It may be a 126mm axle going into a 120mm frame, but
> how will respacing and redishing
> affect the relationship between the big cog and the
> spokes? I suppose that
> the spokes would be at a more acute angle, pulling
> away from the hub flange
> and freewheel, but is that really enough to make a
> difference?
>
> Tom Dalton Replies
> Just to be clear, the spacing you want to screw with
> is the spacing between the hub and FW. Adjusting
> the rear axle spacing will have no appreciable
> effect, though the effect you mention here may
> improve clearance as dish is reduced.
>
> Marcus Helman wrote:
> I should also add that this is one of those Reginas
> that seem to move
> when the wheel is spinning. The body is tight on
> the hub, but the cogs are
> not always parallel to the rim. I hope that makes
> sense.
>
> Tom Dalton Replies
> Yeah, there is a limit to how much runout is
> acceptable. Reginas tend to push that limit more
> than other brands. The Japanese stuff is better in
> this regard.
>
>
> Marcus Helman wrote:
> Can't one just use a bottom bracket lockring as a
> spacer? It fits on
> the hub. It's made of steel. It has notches for
> eventual removal.
>
> Tom Dalton Replies
> Not a good idea. For one, you don't need a threaded
> spacer, it's just something else to jam. Also, the
> outer diameter may be too large, causing
> interference with the outer FW body. The bigger
> probelem is that the BB lockring is pretty thick,
> 2.5mm IIRC. The wider the spacer, the fewer threads
> you engage on the hub shell. Too few soft alloy
> threads, too much load, and the unit could sieze or
> just give way entirely.
>
> Tom Dalton
> Bethlehem, PA
>
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