David and all,
For profiding, I just let the saddle sit in the sun before and during. Profide did change a few years ago and is now white, no longer that pink/strawberry stuff. I schemer it underneath for water that gets kicked up ( but the saddle bag does a decent job of keeping the underside protected. I never noticed a rancid smell, but I never got too close either. Fillipo Berrio Extra Virgin, that's the one. I've used this method for 30 years and It doesen't seem to have done too much harm and has made my butt REALLY HAPPY!. I'm about a 6 thousand mile a year guy and I'll swear by my way. So I can't agree that "these oils aren't good for bikes" (didn't Maynard Hershon write some anti leather saddle/ oil waste of ink (jmho) a bunch of years ago?). BUT that's NOT to say that someone else's method doesn't work PERFECTLY for them. I tried the " soak w/ water from underneath and ride to give shape" method once ( on Bill Lane's site I think) and that worked to give personal shape quickly, but the saddle was as hard as ever and I did soften her the old way. After a few miles , she was perfect. For me. Any water that gets into that bad boy after gett'n the olive oil treatment never did any of mine harm. But I have a few bikes and do switch off. I do hammer the rivets on their edge and round them over a bit other wise they can dig in.OUCH! I learned this method around 1977 from one of the old timers in Prospect Park when I asked what I should do for the carbuncle problem afore mentioned. I had started out using a Brooks Pro on my Raleigh Pro; good and HARD she was. Read: nasty! Well, I gave it a try ( while I was off the bike for 4 days and couldn't sit down). I'm still convinced now after alot of sitting.
John T.Pergolizzi Brooklyn, New York whatever you do, ride more
David Snyder wrote:
> For permeating a saddle with Brooks Proofhide, it speeds thing up if the
> saddle is somehow warmed. I've put many a Proof'd saddle in a pre-heated
> 140F oven, wrapped in foil to reflect radiant assault, for 15 minutes. The
> Proofhide soaks right in!
> I wouldn't use any heat on a wet saddle, but dry ones can take well over 140
> without any ill effect or shrinking.
> Olive oil and other mono-unsaturated and polyunsaturated fats will oxidize
> within weeks, leading to a rancid odor that can be pretty strong. These
> oils aren't good for bikes, as they essentially turn to plastic eventually.
> Tallows used in leather treatments are fully saturated, purified fats that
> resist oxidation and are selected for this quality, I believe.
> Even an oiled or Proof'd saddle will readily soak up water, unless it is
> really saturated. I've put a small wet sponge atop a new (and well -oiled)
> saddle five minutes before a ride and the leather takes up the water
> I keep water away from the rivet areas since these can stretch, and
> sometimes apply the water briefly (and sparingly) to the top only to improve
> grip before I begin sweating. Absorbing sweat is just part of a saddle's job
> description, not that the leather really gets saturated just from sweat
> migrating from one side to the other.
> I use a hammer "lightly" on a new, oiled saddle, but never near the metal
> nose support that extends fully 2" back from the tip. That would make the
> edge appear atop the cover and could cause discomfort or maybe even lead to
> injury for rivet riders.
> > John T.Pergolizzi wrote:
> > Amir,
> > I believe that what your looking for are truly mutually exclusive
> > properties. In other words, you will not get all of those in one package.
> > However, I have used the products found at: http://www.leatherique.com
> > with great success. These are the products recommended by The Ferrari
> > Club
> > of America for dry leather auto interiors: the same applications as we
> > need
> > for dry saddles.
> > It is not cheap, does have a smell (but is not at all offensive) like
> > top quality Connolly leather, will certainly "bleed" through to a degree,
> > doesn't shine great all by itself (nneds a top coat , but it's the best
> > stuff you can get for old dry leather.
> > Any oil will keep sweat from being absorbed into the leather. I use
> > the
> > rejuvenator oil on my cycling shoes as I do not wear socks and the shoes
> > become "hard" after awhile.
> > The oil, any oil, will not "weaken" the leather. The leather is
> > already
> > shot; all dried out and rotted. You just can't save that badly damaged a
> > saddle. But a hard saddle can be softened. The oil will allow the fibers
> > to stretch while a gentle persuader (ball peen hammer) is used to adjust
> > the
> > attitude of the leather. Gently , take your time. A new Brooks takes an
> > hour of banging to soften up. I use olive oil on new saddles (soaked for
> > 3
> > days in a cookie tin), but have also used corn and peanut oil w/ the same
> > success. When the leather is shot, the hammer will go right through them
> > if
> > GREAT care is NOT taken!
> > I believe that a hard saddle is best for a soft ass and a soft saddle is
> > best for a hard ass. So I guess I've just classified myself.
> > good luck and have fun,