Behringer got me hooked on 3M automotive trim adhesive after I rolled one glued with Tubasti. They NEVER came off after that. It was a bit less messy than the regular glues. I always rode on Clement Criterium Setas. Loved those tires. Rarely flatted.But.........When they did and
they did. Owww!
Steve Leitgen La Crosse, WI
On Oct 11, 2005, at 10:22 PM, gpvb1@comcast.net wrote:
> Now don't get me started on this.... ;-)
>
> I've ridden tens of thousands of miles on tubulars over the last
> thirty years, all of it "unsupported." I even toured once on
> Campionato Del Mondo Setas in the Pacific Northwest on my trusty
> Columbus-SP-tubed Trek. (Only did that once, because wet silks are a
> bad thing - they stretch out too easily)! I also rode over the Grand
> Teton pass once on skinny little Czech-made Barum Kriteriums on my
> first "good" bike (a '73 raleigh Super Course).
>
> Near zero flats, because I never use/used cheap tubular tires. It
> really, really makes a huge difference vs. running the el cheapo ones.
> If you want to change tubulars often, buy cheap ones.
>
> Generally, when you run sewups, you carry a used spare with glue
> already on it. On the rare occasion that you have a flat, you install
> the pre-glued tire, and it's completely safe if done properly IMO. One
> can also carry a tube of glue or a glue strip such as Tufo's if that's
> a concern, I suppose.
>
> What is everyone's current favorite sewup glue? I like the Mastik One
> from Vittoria, personally.
>
> Greg "give me tubies or give me... uh... OK... those other things"
> Parker
> Ann Arbor, Michigan
>
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>>
>> > The big thing about "Sew-ups" I found was that (they) corner like
>> glue.
>> > The better rounded tire will hold better as you lay it on its side.
>> A clincher besides being quite a bit heavier just doesn't hold as
>> well in a corner. Take the same bike, switch between wheels, and
you
>> will notice a huge difference. The big advantage to clinchers comes
>> in the real world where you don't have a support vehicle behind
you.
>> Tubulars
>> are glued on for a reason. So they don't come off. Now think of the
>> fun when you want them to come off. Remember that glue takes time.
>> You will probably just take your spare and pop it on. So the rest
of
>> your ride is spent on what is essentially an unsafe wheel. You take
>> out the
>> Ferrari and you will have to deal with the Ferrari maintenance. As
>> much! as I loved the feel of the tubulars, the heartbreak of
letting
>> the air out of a Criterium Seta is just too real. Count me as a
>> clincher fan.
>> >
>> > Steve Leitgen
>> > La Crosse, WI
>> >
>> >
>> > On Oct 11, 2005, at 8:07 PM, gpvb1@comcast.net wrote:
>> >
>> > > Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:18:33 -0700
>> > > From: Erik Olsson
>> > > To: CR List
>> > > Subject: [CR]Tubular rim descriptions
>> > >
>> > > Hi there! I've been looking around for NOS period correct
>> > > rims for my early eighties Eddy Merckx. I'm interested in a
>> > > couple of pairs of tubular rims, but I only have experience
>> > > with clincher rims. If anyone could help me understand the
>> > > difference between grommets, eyelets, and washers I'd
>> > > appreciate it. One description of rims for sale said that they
>> > > had been! partially drilled out to make the glue adhere
>> > > better, b ut I've read that they used to do that to save weight
>> > > or to balance them. Any help in understanding the advantages/
>> > > disadvantages to tubulars vs. clinchers would be great. Thanks!
>> > > Erik Olsson
>> > > Rochester, N.Y.
>> > > That's easy! Quality tubulars = light, fast, fantastic ride
>> qualities,
>> > > long-wearing, high performance, the ultimate. Most "clinchers" =
>> > > compromise, heavy total package, dull, lifeless, bouncy, wear out
>> > > quicker, and they get pinch flats too often!
>> > > (Hee hee - just kidding. Sorta...).
>> > > The machining on the tire bed on some tubular rims ( e.g. Nisi,
>> > > others) is theoretically done for better tire adhesion.... Looks
>> cool,
>> > > too - but that's just apparent until you mount a tire, however.
>> > > There are ferruled and non-ferruled ("plain") tubular rims. Plain
>> ones
>> > > usually require washers under th! e spoke nipples to spread the
>> tension
>> > > load of each spoke. Ferruled ones don't need washers. Eyelets are
>> on
>> > > some dropouts for fender / rack mounting. ;-)
>> > > Grommets are what you use to put a Presta tube through a
>> > > Schrader-sized rim hole.
>> > > Greg Parker
>> > > Ann Arbor, Michigan
>> > > (where friends don't let friends ride cheap tubulars...)