Re: [CR] Tubular rim descriptions


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From: gpvb1@comcast.net
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR] Tubular rim descriptions
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 01:07:32 +0000


Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:18:33 -0700 From: Erik Olsson <sparklinglime@mac.com> To: CR List <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Subject: [CR]Tubular rim descriptions

Hi there! I've been looking around for NOS period correct rims for my early eighties Eddy Merckx. I'm interested in a couple of pairs of tubular rims, but I only have experience with clincher rims. If anyone could help me understand the difference between grommets, eyelets, and washers I'd appreciate it. One description of rims for sale said that they had been partially drilled out to make the glue adhere better, but I've read that they used to do that to save weight or to balance them. Any help in understanding the advantages/ disadvantages to tubulars vs. clinchers would be great. Thanks! Erik Olsson Rochester, N.Y. That's easy! Quality tubulars = light, fast, fantastic ride qualities, long-wearing, high performance, the ultimate. Most "clinchers" = compromise, heavy total package, dull, lifeless, bouncy, wear out quicker, and they get pinch flats too often! (Hee hee - just kidding. Sorta...). The machining on the tire bed on some tubular rims ( e.g. Nisi, others) is theoretically done for better tire adhesion.... Looks cool, too - but that's just apparent until you mount a tire, however. There are ferruled and non-ferruled ("plain") tubular rims. Plain ones usually require washers under the spoke nipples to spread the tension load of each spoke. Ferruled ones don't need washers. Eyelets are on some dropouts for fender / rack mounting. ;-) Grommets are what you use to put a Presta tube through a Schrader-sized rim hole. Greg Parker Ann Arbor, Michigan (where friends don't let friends ride cheap tubulars...)