Now don't get me started on this.... ;-)
I've ridden tens of thousands of miles on tubulars over the last thirty years, all of it "unsupported." I even toured once on Campionato Del Mondo Setas in the Pacific Northwest on my trusty Columbus-SP-tubed Trek. (Only did that once, because wet silks are a bad thing - they stretch out too easily)! I also rode over the Grand Teton pass once on skinny little Czech-made Barum Kriteriums on my first "good" bike (a '73 raleigh Super Course).
Near zero flats, because I never use/used cheap tubular tires. It really, really makes a huge difference vs. running the el cheapo ones. If you want to change tubulars often, buy cheap ones.
Generally, when you run sewups, you carry a used spare with glue already on it. On the rare occasion that you have a flat, you install the pre-glued tire, and it's completely safe if done properly IMO. One can also carry a tube of glue or a glue strip such as Tufo's if that's a concern, I suppose.
What is everyone's current favorite sewup glue? I like the Mastik One from Vittoria, personally.
Greg "give me tubies or give me... uh... OK... those other things" Parker Ann Arbor, Michigan
> The big thing about "Sew-ups" I found was that (they) corner like glue.
> The better rounded tire will hold better as you lay it on its side. A clincher besides being quite a bit heavier just doesn't hold as well in a corner. Take the same bike, switch between wheels, and you will notice a huge difference. The big advantage to clinchers comes in the real world where you don't have a support vehicle behind you. Tubulars
are glued on for a reason. So they don't come off. Now think of the fun when you want them to come off. Remember that glue takes time. You will probably just take your spare and pop it on. So the rest of your ride is spent on what is essentially an unsafe wheel. You take out the
Ferrari and you will have to deal with the Ferrari maintenance. As much as I loved the feel of the tubulars, the heartbreak of letting the air out of a Criterium Seta is just too real. Count me as a clincher fan.
> Steve Leitgen
> La Crosse, WI
> On Oct 11, 2005, at 8:07 PM, email@example.com wrote:
> > Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:18:33 -0700
> > From: Erik Olsson
> > To: CR List
> > Subject: [CR]Tubular rim descriptions
> > Hi there! I've been looking around for NOS period correct
> > rims for my early eighties Eddy Merckx. I'm interested in a
> > couple of pairs of tubular rims, but I only have experience
> > with clincher rims. If anyone could help me understand the
> > difference between grommets, eyelets, and washers I'd
> > appreciate it. One description of rims for sale said that they
> > had been partially drilled out to make the glue adhere
> > better, but I've read that they used to do that to save weight
> > or to balance them. Any help in understanding the advantages/
> > disadvantages to tubulars vs. clinchers would be great. Thanks!
> > Erik Olsson
> > Rochester, N.Y.
> > That's easy! Quality tubulars = light, fast, fantastic ride qualities,
> > long-wearing, high performance, the ultimate. Most "clinchers" =
> > compromise, heavy total package, dull, lifeless, bouncy, wear out
> > quicker, and they get pinch flats too often!
> > (Hee hee - just kidding. Sorta...).
> > The machining on the tire bed on some tubular rims ( e.g. Nisi,
> > others) is theoretically done for better tire adhesion.... Looks cool,
> > too - but that's just apparent until you mount a tire, however.
> > There are ferruled and non-ferruled ("plain") tubular rims. Plain ones
> > usually require washers under the spoke nipples to spread the tension
> > load of each spoke. Ferruled ones don't need washers. Eyelets are on
> > some dropouts for fender / rack mounting. ;-)
> > Grommets are what you use to put a Presta tube through a
> > Schrader-sized rim hole.
> > Greg Parker
> > Ann Arbor, Michigan
> > (where friends don't let friends ride cheap tubulars...)