RE: [CR]reviving an Ideale 90


Example: Production Builders:Cinelli:Laser

From: "Ken Freeeman" <freesound@comcast.net>
To: "'Freek Faro'" <khun.freek@gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [CR]reviving an Ideale 90
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 19:58:01 -0400
In-Reply-To: <df813d780510161527w2d247b88l@mail.gmail.com>
Thread-Index: AcXSoMkTWv9kuIutTsqSG2P85dRLxgAC9H1w
cc: 'classic list' <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>

Freek, you could be taking my comments a bit too far. I don't have any experience with olive oil treatments, or anything more drastic that lackadaisical Proofiding. I do believe that won't soften your saddle. I really don't know if any of those more drastic techniques would affect it.

Something should affect it, its only leather after all. Question is, if you soften it, will it be better? and if so, for how long? My vote would be that if it doesn't work for you as is, make it prettier and sell it, and use the money for a saddle you can use.

Ken Freeman, Ann Arbor, MI

_____

From: Freek Faro [mailto:khun.freek@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 6:27 PM To: Ken Freeeman Cc: John T.Pergolizzi; classic list Subject: Re: [CR]reviving an Ideale 90

Thanks for all your advice guys, especially from Ken, which translates into 'it won't work' ! Mine really sounds like wood, when you tap it with a knuckle! Anyway, maybe I'm a hard-ass kind of guy, because the saddle I like the best so far (after almost 30 years of racing bikes) is a Selle Italia SLR. Ai, ai, what did I say there? OK, it's modern, but surprisingly comfy for it's 135 grams (the Ideale weighs over 700?). The Ideale is a beauty to see, so it's going on the Zieleman when it's restored. That's when reason why the Ideale has to look better than it does right now. I put some Bickmore Bick 4 on the underside, and it disappeared in an hour. Maybe soaking will have more effect.

Freek Faro Rotterdam Netherlands

2005/10/17, Ken Freeeman <freesound@comcast.net>:

I've owned a Rebour Ideale 92 since it was new in 1984, and put perhaps 500 miles on it, and it has never changed a bit. I Proofide it perhaps once a year or whenever the whim hits, and it has always been thick and hard. What I like is its shape. It fits right in for me.

I would not expect your 90 to soften. It should get prettier due to treatment, but softer would surprise me. I can't imagine a non-Rebour being

any harder.

I like it much more that my (newer and softer) Team Pros. I get some pain from both saddle designs, but less so on the Ideale.

Ken Freeman Ann Arbor, MI

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But I have a few bikes and do switch off. I do hammer the rivets on their edge and round them over a bit other wise they can dig in. OUCH! I learned this method around 1977 from one of the old timers in Prospect Park when I asked what I should do for the carbuncle problem afore mentioned. I had started out using a Brooks Pro on my Raleigh Pro; good and HARD she was. Read: nasty! Well, I gave it a try ( while I was off the bike

for 4 days and couldn't sit down). I'm still convinced now after alot of sitting.

John T.Pergolizzi Brooklyn, New York whatever you do, ride more

David Snyder wrote:


> For permeating a saddle with Brooks Proofhide, it speeds thing up if the
> saddle is somehow warmed. I've put many a Proof'd saddle in a pre-heated
> 140F oven, wrapped in foil to reflect radiant assault, for 15 minutes. The
> Proofhide soaks right in!
> I wouldn't use any heat on a wet saddle, but dry ones can take well over 140
> without any ill effect or shrinking.
>
> Olive oil and other mono-unsaturated and polyunsaturated fats will oxidize
> within weeks, leading to a rancid odor that can be pretty strong. These
> oils aren't good for bikes, as they essentially turn to plastic eventually.
> Tallows used in leather treatments are fully saturated, purified fats that
> resist oxidation and are selected for this quality, I believe.
>
> Even an oiled or Proof'd saddle will readily soak up water, unless it is
> really saturated. I've put a small wet sponge atop a new (and well -oiled)
> saddle five minutes before a ride and the leather takes up the water
> visibly.
> I keep water away from the rivet areas since these can stretch, and
> sometimes apply the water briefly (and sparingly) to the top only to improve
> grip before I begin sweating. Absorbing sweat is just part of a saddle's job
> description, not that the leather really gets saturated just from sweat
> migrating from one side to the other.
> I use a hammer "lightly" on a new, oiled saddle, but never near the metal
> nose support that extends fully 2" back from the tip. That would make the
> edge appear atop the cover and could cause discomfort or maybe even lead to
> injury for rivet riders.
>
>

Again, all just my humble opinion,

John T.Pergolizzi
Brooklyn, New York