Re: [CR]Best way to put back the headtube badge

(Example: Events:Eroica)

Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 06:27:22 -0800
From: "Rich Pinder" <rpinder@usc.edu>
Subject: Re: [CR]Best way to put back the headtube badge
In-reply-to: <d1c7eaa4978d7491d5635f54e4c4dd19@earthlink.net>
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
References:
cc: Bianca Pratorius <biankita@earthlink.net>

Hi Garth,

Many just commented with some good ideas quite recently on this list about this topic. Mine is a Raleigh 69 Pro with three rivets, btw.

Go to the archives for subject: "Best way to put back the headtube badge". Brian B had a really detailed explanation, btw.

I got an additional post as well from the FrameBuilders list, and I repeat it below. I'm not sure which I'll go for (true rivet or these drive screws). Let me know how yours comes out, whichever way you end up doing it.

Rich Pinder Van Nuys, CA

From FrameBuilders:
>
> Rich,
>
> Typically, head badges are held on with 'drive screws'. These have a
> head that looks like a rivet but they are not, technically, a rivet
> because the end is not peened (aka riveted). The shank of a drive
> screw has a very coarse thread and they are installed by hammering
> them into an undersize hole.
>
> If you could get to the backside, you could simply drive it back out
> with a punch. You can usually reuse the existing drive screw when you
> can drive it out cleanly. But that method is probably not going to
> work for you.
>
> You can sometimes grab the head of the drive screw with small vise
> grip type pliers and turn it back out (normal right hand thread).
> This will usually ruin the drive screw and may damage the head badge
> too if you aren't extremely careful.
>
> Sometimes you can slip a putty knife with a sharpened edge under the
> edge of the badge and get the drive screw to back out a touch. Then
> grab it with pliers to unthread. Be very careful that you don't bend
> the edge of the badge too much if you try this.
>
> Drilling it out is probably the safest method. Be sure to use a
> center punch so the drill won't wander. Ideally, you will use a left
> hand drill bit (available from machinist supply places) to drill it
> out. If you use a left hand drill bit (and are lucky) the drive screw
> will back itself out as you drill so you won't actually need to drill
> it completely out.
>
> You can purchase drive screws from McMaster-Carr if you can't find
> them at a local bolt supply house. You can see a picture on their web
> site at:
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com
>
> Just search for 'Type U Drive Screw'.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Jon Etheredge

Bianca Pratorius wrote:
> I just repainted the headtube and fork of a Raliegh. The crane
> headbadge had two pins that I had to remove some of in order to remove
> the badge for re-painting. Now only enough pin exists to properly
> locate the badge but not enough to bend on the inside to hold the
> badge on. What is the best way to re-secure the badge. (tiny dots of
> epoxy, elmers glue, something else). I would use automotive double
> stick tape except that it is too thick for a good look. I might want
> to remove the badge again at some future date without destroying
> it.... I think the old gold ones might be rare.
>
> Garth Libre in Miami Shores.