Not really worth doing anything with a hub that has, say, up to 1/16 inch of play at the rim. Even Phil's say not to concern oneself with it. The bearings aren't preloaded anyway on those hubs, so the play is entirely dependent on the total play in the system, and there has to be a wee bit otherwise the bearings will be binding and fail prematurely. As an aside, I got play in my hubs on an OT MTB made by Phil. These have a thrust washer which is supposed to apply a little preload to the bearings and adjust the play appropriately. When I swapped the bearings for new ones the amount of play stayed at the same level....so I simply swapped the bearings back......and have used the "worn/old" bearings for the last 5 years with no deterioration. When I ride over roots and stutter bumps they do make more noise than I like though.
Neill Currie Hillsborough, Nh, USA.
My blog, bike related, I think, is at http://blogericious.blogspot.com/
The Mountain Goat bicycle website is located here: http://www.geocities.com/neill1234/index.html?1011568933040
>I have an early 70's Phil Wood front hub that has a little bit of "shake"
> it. I assume this means time for new bearings? I've never worked on one of
> these before and don't want to dig in without some guidance. I can get the
> bearings at a local supply house, but would like some advise on getting
> bearings out. There's no allen key like newer cartridge hubs I've worked
> So I assume both "ends" are just pressed into the bearings, and can be
> driven out with a drift? Any tips before I break something would be
> appreciated. I did check the Wood site but could not find the info if it's
> there. Again this is an early hub, chrome steel center not stainless if
> Thanks much, Jon Williams
> Grants Pass OR