Re: [CR]Fw: Crank Pins-- Contest

From: "ternst" <>
To: "ternst" <>, <>
References: <012801c5ec05$dff90e00$0200a8c0@D8XCLL51>
Subject: Re: [CR]Fw: Crank Pins-- Contest
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 18:33:38 -0800

The moment of truth:??!! Whatever that is?

Instead of printing the winner's text, I'm going to announce the 3 winners, and write about how I was taught and why.

All the entries had some of what I term correct elements. I'll incorporate the steps and all can compare.

Those that didn't submit will now have the opportunity to add to my technique and we should have a very good handle on the process.

There are many ways to do this so we'll all have fun learning some new tricks.

The winner is: Michael Butler. Second, Mark Agree, and third, Harvey Sachs. Michael seemed to understand the subtleties and concept the best.

What I learned: The English have it correct, when the crank facing you is at 12:00 the nut is facing to the rear of the bike, or if at 9:00 the nut is facing up.

First, please have the correct cotter size for the crank. Insert and see if pin does not go in too far so that shoulder comes out the other side, preventing the nut from tightening. If easy do this by hand, if not, gently tap with instrument till pin seats on spindle without pressure. Lightly taping the pin will not damage cup or bearing surfaces. Walloping with a 5lb. Sledge is not recommended.

I was taught to have the round heavy part of the pin facing forward so that the heavy thrust of force would be against the strongest cross section of the pin lessening the possibility of loosening. You may mount them the other direction as Rebour showed in his sketch, and if seated properly with good materiel, it probably won't matter, but why take a chance. With a pin press no support is needed for the spindle, but if you use hammer and drift then support is needed for the spindle and crank so that when seating the pins tight and proper you won't damage the cups or bearings. Sometimes you may need someone to hold the bike / frame while you do this. Or with a little practice you can hold frame, drift, and hammer. the object is to get the cranks at 6:00 so you can ride nice, even circles.

When you set up the pins you will sight the alignment from the side and will have to file the flat on one or both of the pins nice and flat changing the taper angle so that you get the cranks nice and straight. Pins in the same diameter often come in varying angle cuts, so it's critical to make sure the set is solid and you get a solid full contact on the spindle and can tighten the washer and nut nicely. I find that hitting the pin and snugging the nut and hitting pin again is hardly necessary. You may want to hold your drift with a pliers when setting the pins so you don't wallop your hand, fingers, knuckles, if you slip off or miss the mark.

Removing the pin is easy with a press, the concave should protect the thread while pushing the pin back. Remove or loosen pin first if thread is coming through far enough. Using a hammer, I always drove the pin out with a copper rod, softer brass or aluminum will also do. The rod 1/2" plus in size so it won't bend easily. Again you can relieve the nut a little while doing this, it often prevents bending the threaded section. Both press and rod could bend your pin, so be prepared to insert a new one.

I don't like to put grease or oil on pins, spindles or crank interfacing surfaces, I feel that the pressure could make the parts work somewhat, The stuff never got rusted internally when we were riding. If you are building up a show bike then by all means lube a little if you like. No harm. Campy doesn't allow lubricating spindles and cranks either. Slightly different reasons, same principle.

If you hammer the crank pin in too tight, you run the risk of stretching the crank away from the spindle if the crank is softer then expected and you get an ovalized hole. The next pin will go in farther and make it more difficult to do nicely.

This reads a lot harder than it is. I would go to a garage sale or thrift type shop, buy any old cotter pin bike for el cheapo cost and experiment with it before doing your collector iron steeds. When you're done practicing give it back to goodwill and take a deduction. Or throw it over your neighbor's fence and at his barking dog.

Hope I covered enough to get you started, any Q's or comments or add on's, fire away. For the record, Michaels prize is a souvenir piece of Siberian pine from the ADT Velodrome, given as a VIP gift at the 2005 board track championships. Mark and Harvey each get a stainless coffee mug, from the same event. Fits in the car cup holder.

Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "ternst"
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:03 PM
Subject: [CR]Fw: Crank Pins-- Contest

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ternst
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 9:37 PM
> Subject: Crank Pins-- Contest
> Now that you have gotten your crank pin presses or hammers in position,
> I have a question.
> What is the proper way to install the pins?
> I would like to see how many of you actually know how to.
> Contest rules:
> 1) To protect the identities of the contestants, please submit entries
> off list to me.
> 2) Entries will be kept confidential.
> 3) Objectivity, accuracy and critical logic and thinking will guide my
> decision.
> 4) Three prizes will awarded to the best entries. The prizes are bike
> related, but not a bike part. I think you'll enjoy them.
> 5) If more than three correct answers are submitted, the first three
> will be decided on time of submission to me to be fair.
> 6) I will print the first place entry, and the runners' up only with
> submitee's permission.
> 7) I'll also write my own technique for comparison.
> Let's have a little fun.
> We'll compare what you know vs. what I know, and we'll all learn a lot.
> Entries close one week from today on Friday, November 25, 2005.
> Winners and prizes will be announced on Sunday, November 27, 2005.
> Riders, start your typing.
> Ted Ernst
> Palos Verdes Estates, CA